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Reputation: 874

Can someone explain to me why making espresso drinks is considered so complex/artisanal?

I know from experience the difference between excellent and mediocre espresso. I am not denying that it is a complex process that requires skill, I just don't get at what point that skill comes in. The steps, as far as I can see it, are:

1) Get good beans(this is outside of the barista's hands)
2) Roast it properly (also outside barista's control)
3) Grind it properly
4) Put coffee in the little cup-thingy
5) Tamp it down
6) Put cup thingy in the machine
7) Make the espresso come out (by pressing a button?)
8) Pour the espresso into the cup at the appropriate moment
9) (optional depending on drink) steam milk
10) (optional depending on drink) add milk
11) Get annoyed at customer for asking you if this is your latte (ha ha just kidding, I've met a lot of nice baristas)

It seems like steps 1 and 2 clearly have a huge impact on the output. But the steps of making the drink seem pretty easy. What am I missing? (I'm genuinely curious)

(Another way of posing the question is: At what point in the process do things usually go wrong, leading to a bad or so-so drink?)

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  • Gold-head_small
    Reputation: 6000

    Like pretty much anything that involves a skill, from baking a cake to playing the mandolin to building a bicycle wheel to tuning an engine, making the perfect espresso drink can bring out the competitiveness and obsessive tinkering instinct to get it just a little bit more perfect this time. People just love tuning things.

    Every step on your list involves technical decisions. The fineness of the grind affects the extraction (and changes with the temperature and humidity). Exactly how much coffee you put in the holder and how firmly and evenly you tamp it does too. The hot water (exactly how hot?) extracts about a zillion compounds from the coffee as it is forced through it, and small changes in things that affect that extraction have big effects in the resulting liquid.

    Note that the temperature of the machine changes depending on how busy you are.

    You have to know exactly when to stop extracting, too. You know the crema that forms on top of a shot? Leave it too long and it dissolves; too early and it doesn't form properly, and the coffee might be too bitter.

    Steaming milk is a real art form. You'd know this if you had ever tried it; it's HARD to do it right, and even harder to fine-tune the foaming. You're holding the nozzle of steam (how hot?) just under the surface of the liquid milk, which you can't see because of the foam. Do it wrong and you burn the milk or worse fill it with water that isn't steam anymore.

    The pour is important. Watch next time someone makes you a drink, and see how it mixes perfectly. If you've ever done it, you know that doing that little design flourish, the rosette or leaf or whatever, is simply impossible to even contemplate without special training, practice, and a real knack.

    If you read books or magazines aimed at serious coffee heads, you'll see endless discussions about all of these points and more. They get really into it. It's not necessary to get to that level to make a good cup of coffee, but it's POSSIBLE. So people will do it.

    I would say the biggest place to screw up is the steaming; that's the part that always gave me the most trouble (I was a mediocre barista on my best day, a terrible one more often). But even with a push-button machine it's pretty easy to pull a crappy shot if you don't know how to tamp or if your grind is wrong or if you run it too long.

    Oh, and if your stuff isn't clean -- grinder, espresso head, steam wand -- you'll get nasty stuff too.

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  • Photo_small
    Reputation: 1254
    Moderator

    Fnarf and Infernactual have covered almost everything BUT if you are making espresso at home then the single most important factor is the time between when the bean is roasted and when you drink it. Lighter roasts last a bit longer than darker roasts but for the most part you should be drinking your coffee from 1 to 5 days after roasting. So, bringing that exotic blend back from Hawaii or Thailand is no better than what you'll get from the shelf at your local grocery atore

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  • 6521205-0-large_small
    Reputation: 1345

    Fnarf pretty much covered every aspect of it as usual. He is absolutely right about steaming the milk and pouring a latte - those require a great deal of practice to get right.

    But pulling a good espresso also requires coordinating the grind and the tamping so that it extracts at the right speed - not too slow, and definitely not too fast.

    A good machine can make a huge difference and I don't know if anyone is skilled enough to pull a good espresso on some of the crappy home machines.

    You mention that the bean and roast are not within the control of the Barista, but in fact they can be if you are making the coffee at home. You can buy green beans and roast them and it is much simpler than you would think.

    If you are a cream/sugar person then that can cure many ills. In fact, a little bit of salt is the best way to kill bitterness I'm told.

    It seems easy, but even in Seattle I'd say you have a 50-50 shot (punny) at getting a good espresso.

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  • Photo_small
    Reputation: 2

    Un-Artisanal espresso is what most people get most of the time. That's why most people prefer their espresso with nearly a quart of steamed milk and 4oz of sugary syrup flavors. Their local coffee establishments and baristas have failed them. For the lucky few of us who have been shown the light, there's no going back, and no amount of marketing can convince me that drinking a quart of milk in one sitting is a good idea.

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