Cthulhu-early_small
Reputation: 97

Get rid of blackberry...plant something else...

on a +40% slope - what are the chemical control options after cutting the blackberries back; pulling the 'brain' and the trailing roots may work elsewhere but there's too much area, and the hillside soil is loose. Brushkiller overspray would likely get the desirable plants to remain.

After the removal (along with ivy and horsetail and stinking william geranium and all the other invasives), what plants would be best to plant to hold soil and shade out competing resprouts?

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2 Answers

  • Dsc_0339_small
    Reputation: 675

    Abdul, here’s some blackberry control info from WSU Extension.

    From "Big Woody Weeds—Controlling Blackberries and Broom" (Mary Robson, retired King Co Extension agent): Digging out these weeds by shovel or mattock, getting as much of the root system as possible, gives a good start on management. A prickly, stickery, tiring job it is, but this removal does help. Blackberries come back from roots left in the soil. . . . .On small patches, cut blackberries down to the ground before digging out the roots. Then watch the roots for regrowth and treat that new growth with glyphosate (sold as Round-up.) Treat it when the new growth is about a foot tall so there's enough live tissue to respond to the chemical. Another technique involves cutting the stem off about a foot from the ground and painting undiluted glyphosate in the fresh-cut, still damp stem. This method is recommended by Washington State University specialists . . . . .If a large acreage must be cleared of woody weeds, rent a bulldozer! . . . .If you plan to spray the foliage of these woody weeds, mid-August and into September is a good time to act. The plants are then beginning to move carbohydrates from the leaves back to the roots for winter, and herbicides are more effective then. Several different brushkillers containing glyphosate are registered for this use. Check the label to be sure the problem weed is listed; read directions carefully. Be careful to keep these and any herbicide off desirable plants, including the trunks and stems. Many of these weed killers are non-selective and will damage or kill any green plant they touch. Woody, shrubby weeds need management; keep chopping out seedlings and root stock after the initial clean up. http://gardening.wsu.edu/column/07-19-98.htm

    From WSU Hortsense: Chemical Control--Apply glyphosate products in September to October when canes still have foliage and after berries are formed. Fall treatment must be made before a killing frost. Triclopyr products are effective and are available for non-specific area application. Glyphosate products should be applied as spot treatments only! Herbicides should be used with caution if the fruit may be eaten. NOTE: Some ingredients listed here are only available in combination. Read the label carefully on combination products to make sure the product is suitable for your specific situation. http://pep.wsu.edu/hortsense/

    Also from Hortsense: In WASHINGTON, Himalayan blackberry (R. armeniacus) and evergreen blackberry (R. laciniatus) are designated as Class ‘C’ noxious weeds. In OREGON, Himalayan (Armenian) blackberry (R. armeniacus) is designated as a Class ‘B’ noxious weed and is also on the Oregon noxious weed quarantine list, which prohibits sale, purchase, and transport of plants, seeds, and plant parts except fruit intended for consumption. Management may be required by law in your county. Consult your local Noxious Weed Control Board for more information. http://www.kingcounty.gov/environment/animalsAndPlants/noxious-weeds/weed-identification/blackberry.aspx


    What to Plant?  I have a very steep slope on the east side of my garden. After removing the weeds and improving the non-existent soil in 1993, I consulted with a nursery to find plants that could stabilize the slope to prevent erosion. I planted a combination of dogwood shrubs (Cornus kousa chinesis) and groundcover Cotoneaster damerei. Since that time, the area also includes lots of sword ferns.  Not knowing the details of your site, I’d recommend The Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Book of Lists by Ray and Jan McNeilan. This book is extremely well-organized and includes plant recommendations for hillsides depending on the conditions and location. 

    I hope this information is helpful. Controlling blackberries can be a prickly task!    -Andrea

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  • Wa_usa_small
    Reputation: 2677

    For chemical control, you basically have two options. What you should do is buy a product called Crossbow, and spray on the affected area. Crossbow is expensive, but it's carefully engineered to not be too terrible for the environment. The downside is that it's about $70 a gallon.

    I'll tell you what a lot of people do when they can't afford Crossbow. You're probably not going to like it, and it's probably going to get me a half dozen or more "Thumbs down" responses, but it's a fact of life that people use it to kill blackberries: Diesel.

    Diesel fuel kills blackberries. Kills 'em dead gone. Get a couple gallons of diesel, pour it into a watering can, and spread liberally. It works. It's terrible for the environment, it stinks, it's dangerous and you shouldn't do it. But people do.

    If you have the means, buy Crossbow. I would highly discourage you from using diesel, but I thought I would point out that people do use it.

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