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Cars & Motorcycles
20110127-tjded3f2m79yyq67qymmk3r25w

Whether you want to find out if something's wrong with your manifest, or you just want to show pictures of your sweet, sweet ride, post your vehicular questions here.

Answers
  • Can I burn leftover 50:1 premix in the truck?
    Finn3goof_small

    Totally fine. Most 73 fords are be burning that much oil anyway wether you put in the tank or not. Your valves may even like it as it's probably been a while since they saw the softening affect of the lead that was once in gasoline.

  • what's up with the headless dancer leotard sticker on people's cars?
    Kendo_20dog_small

    Is it this one? http://www.amazon.com/Dave-Matthews-Band-Dancer-Stickers/dp/B001QTMEP8

    Looks like it has something to do with the Dave Matthews Band. I found a few discussions about what it's supposed to mean; there doesn't seem to be a consensus. It started as a doodle drawn by Dave.

    People seem to be referring to it as the "fire dancer."

  • what's the best place to sell a junk car?
    Clothing

    Try Pull-A-Part in Lynnwood. We just got 295.00 for a Honda Civic and 250.00 for an old Volvo. I think it recently changed its name, but the number is the same.

  • What's the trick to really steep hill starts?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Your clutch may need some adjustment, which is normal over the life of unit and as the clutch wears over time. Be sure to check the fluid reservoir of your clutch master cylinder under the hood to be sure you are in the optimal level range. Check your owner's manual for the details.

    There is no 'normal' on clutch wear, but I had to laugh about needing a clutch replacement. I am approaching 20 years and 200,000 miles on my Toyota and am still on the original clutch. Still, if it has been driven hard or abused I suppose that might be true, but needing an adjustment is more likely.

    You won't "burn out" your hand/parking brake using it on a hill to start without slipping backwards. The parking brake just manually actuates your rear brakes and if you have any problem it is probably just needing a cable adjustment. If the brake is "burned out" then you have major problems with your brakes to begin with. Your brakes are under way more wear during normal usage, not when you are using them to help to arrest backward motion at slow speed in hill starts. Use away, just remember to fully release it when you finally do get going.

    Driving a manual transmission will become a natural process with some more experience. You will probably come to realize that you have much more control of the vehicle than using an automatic transmission, like many of us. However with the steep hills and soon to come inclement weather likely, you are right to get more experience and learn how best to deal with those hill situations.

    I would be happy to meet with you and give you some in-person instruction on your practice hill or elsewhere, if you wanted. You can reach me through the society phone number on the 'contact us' page (http://www.nwexoticbirdsociety.org/).

  • Got Any Seattle Driving Tips?
    Sho_small

    The best thing would be to take a day when you have a lot of extra time to get to/from work/school/important daily thing and experiment with back roads. You never know when you need a plan B, C, D or E to get to where you want to go. A lot of Seattle neighborhoods weren't built for the population size we have now, so smaller neighborhood streets can be overrun during the commute. Have backup plans, plural.

    I check http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/seattle/ before I leave work, since I work in Bothell and live in the U District. The updates are usually in real time, so it can help to know that you can fly across an uncrowded bridge that day or not. (The most awesome days are when you realize that there are accidents on I-5, 405, 520, and I-90, and that there's a Sounders game. I work late on those days.)

    Oh, and put your phone away. Too many people are shitty enough drivers without that giant distraction added to the mix.

    Specific tips include:

    1) The Cat's Whiskers shortcut that Sacrelicious mentioned is rad - I take it to work every day up to 228th. However, you will be driving through Brier, a speed trap masquerading as a neighborhood. Drive the speed limit or face nitpicky ticketing.

    2)At the juncture of Ravenna Ave NE and Lake City Way, going northbound, there is no stop sign. I repeat, there is no stop sign. And yet, 50% of the time, people slam on the brakes as they approach LCW in fear that they are merging directly into oncoming traffic DESPITE THE BRAND NEW THIRD LANE THAT HAS SPRUNG FORTH JUST FOR THEM THAT NO ONE IS DRIVING IN. We need some universally accepted antithesis-of-a-stop-sign (a "go" sign that's not a light?) that beckons people forward and discourages pointless brake-riding.

    3)Try not to drive in the U District on Husky game days. Stay on foot, stay home, or leave town. Traffic control for football games is the biggest pain in the ass. Warning signs go up in affected areas a few days prior to game time. Pay attention to those signs, and plan your vacations accordingly.

    4) If there's a backup on 25th Ave NE during commute times, go east toward the Lake and snake through those streets to get where you were headed. If you go west, almost all of those Ravenna streets end at Ravenna Park, and there are few outlets if you get stuck there. Go through Wedgwood/View Ridge/Bryant instead.

  • Should I avoid buying a Subaru?
    Wa_usa_small

    No, you should not avoid buying a Subaru.

    You should buy a Subaru because they are AWESOME. I love my Subaru. I've got 169,000 miles on my 99 Outback and it's still running like a champ.

    I had to do the head gaskets a while back. I had a catastrophic failure climbing up Ryegrass Summit three years ago on the way home from the Apple Cup (thank God for AAA). Got it towed back to my mechanic in the Seattle area and it wasn't a huge deal. I don't remember what the price was, but it wasn't astronomical. I think it was in the middle to high 3 figures.

    This summer I blew another gasket in Skagit County, can't remember precisely which one, but the bill WITH a new timing chain that we decided to do simultaneously was $300 and change.

    I've owned this car since it had 140k on it, and it was my brother's for the preceeding 50k. Those are the two gasket incidents the vehicle has endured in the approximately 90,000 miles it's been in my family. That's not enough to discourage me.

    Also, if you are able to run thicker oil, you can stave off gasket problems. I run 10w40 when I can (some shops don't stock it, and I don't always have the time to change it myself). If you are able to run thick oil in an old Subaru, you'll be better off, however that may be a luxury unavailable to you in Colorado cold weather.

    Also, bear in mind that whether or not a car comes from an area where roads are salted will have a great deal to do with it's longevity as a viable used car for you. I'm no expert, but I'd venture to guess they probably salt the roads in Colorado. If you can buy a Subaru that came from Seattle or Los Angeles you'll be better off.

    In short, I'd say the Suby is light and nimble, it never gets stuck in the snow, I haven't used my tire chains EVER and it even does ok pulling a small boat. Yes, I've had some gasket issues, but all cars have their foibles. My current Suby is running strong at 169k and my previous '93 Legacy ran to 245k before the engine crapped out.

    For what it's worth, my last Ford Explorer ran to 118k when the transmission crapped out. I spent $2500 to drop a new tranny in that beast, and the engine quit 7,000 miles later. I swore I'd never deal with that kind of bullshit again, and switched to Subaru.

    I couldn't be happier with my 99 Outback. You should buy a Subaru.

  • Where would they have towed my car?
    Avatar_default
  • What would a car like this cost?
    Meansceneprod-gothgirl7872_small

    From my experience there's two ways you can go on this depending on your finances-

    Old japanese, Honda, Toyota, Subaru, pre 1994. With about $1000+/-$500 and a lot of looking you can find a decent car that you're going to drive into the ground. Seriously though you're going to have to put some time into it to find a good one. It helps to have an 'Ideal' car. i.e; sedan, wagon, hatchback 4wd, 2wd, automtic, manual, makes, models. Close your eyes and imagine yourself driving, OK? So what were you driving? Look for that relentlessly, scour craigslist, cars.com, etc. It helps to have a patient friend who knows cars and/or isn't afraid to tell you that something you're excited about sucks. It also helps if they can drive you to meet sellers for test drives. Most of these cars if they're well maintained (mostly just a regular oil change) will go to about 300,000 miles, so keep that in mind as a cost/use function. DO NOT BUY THE FIRST ONE YOU LOOK AT!!! DO NOT SETTLE!!! To go this route right you must at least vaguely know what you want and spend enough time looking so that you have a good idea of what a good price for it is. Keep enough cash on hand (and bring about $200 to each meeting/test drive for a deposit) so that you can pounce when you find it.

    If you're looking to spend $3000-6000ish I would recommend either a volkswagon or a hyundai in the 1999-2005ish range. Volkswagons have a better resale value and they are undoubtably "cooler" but they are known for electrical problems. Hyundais are less expensive comparing price to year and mileage, more reliable, and they get considerably better gas mileage but they are supposedly less comfortable and don't handle as well, and they have a lower resale value, and they're not as cool.

    Don't bother spending $2000-4000 on a 1994-2000ish car, you're probably buying someone's crap that they didn't take care of, and in general that was a bad time for cars, foreign and domestic. You'll end up spending about $1000 on repairs in just the first year of having it

    First figure out what you want, then figure out what a fair price is, and then take your time finding it.

  • What are the 5 things a Seattlite should have in his/her car?
    Wa_usa_small

    1) AAA Card. If you own a car, you should be a AAA member. Basic membership starts at about $50/year and will get you out of a jam, unlock, jumpstart, or tow up to 30 miles. Premium membership is about $90 and gets you towed up to 100 miles. I travel a lot so I opt for the long-range towing protection. I blew a gasket coming up Ryegrass Summit between the Columbia River and Ellensburg once, and got towed back across the mountains for free. I had an Alternator crap out in Everett, and got towed home for free. I have a dozen stories like this. One towing bill will cost more than a year's AAA membership. Get the card.

    2) Football or Frisbee. Ferries are late. Mountain passes close. Bridges get stuck open. Shit happens. When you travel around here, sometimes you have to wait. I've played football in the middle of Interstate 90 on top of Snoqualmie Pass with strangers when they closed it for cleanup after a spring avalanche in April. I've played frisbee and football at the ferry dock a million times too. You know how it is with the ferries, "Leaves Seattle at half past ten, gets to the other side GOD KNOWS WHEN."

    3) An "Oh Shit Kit." Mine contains the following: Fire Extinguisher, Basic first aid kit, Duct Tape, Basic tools (screwdrivers, wrenches, vise grip, pliers),Tire Pressure Guage,Tow Strap (for pulling vehicles out of snow or mud etc), Coat hanger for roadside abortions (kidding, kidding! I just put that in to see if anybody was paying attention. It's for helping friends unlock their car), Road Flares, Jumper cables. When you fail to plan, you plan to fail. Carrying a box with these basics can help you solve unanticipated problems. 

    4) Paperwork. In Washington, you must carry the registration form SIGNED by the registered owner, as well as proof of insurance. The ticket for not having proof of insurance is a doozy. You can print this out from your insurance company's website. If you've lost your registration, you can get a replacement copy for $10. 

    5) Radio with a preset button tuned to KOMO 1000 AM. They have the best traffic information, every 10 minutes on the 4's. If you don't have an AM Radio, follow @KOMOradio on twitter, but have your passenger load it on the smartphone, don't look at it while driving. 

  • Is auto detailing worth the price, or will a car wash suffice?
    Photo_on_2012-01-03_at_17

    I would probably go for the detailing, because of all the stuff that is on your car. It will make it look way way better.

    I only say this, because I had mildew/mold growing on my car, because it was parked under a tree and I didn't drive it much for like a year and a half. I couldn't get the mold off just with car washing, so I had to get it detailed. It looked really fantastic when it was done! The guy who did it did a fabulous job that would have taken me weeks or months to do! I didn't get the inside detailed, because it was clean. Just the outside.

    I would say if you are going to sell it, just make it as clean as possible. You could buy some cheap floor mats to put in there to spruce it up. Vacuum the interior and make sure all the dust is gone. And maybe spray the seats with Febreeze or something so it smells fresh.

  • Wiper Blades: OEM or Third-Party?
    Il_570xn

    Unfortunately not a sweet spot on price, but nothing even compares to the performance of PIAA wiper blades. They are probably the priciest on the market, however they are made of silicone. The silicone outlasts and out performs any rubber. Once the investment is made the refill replacements are extremely cheap. The blades even come with a cloth that has a liquid the treats the windshield. PIAA's are extremely durable, long lasting, and absolutely silent. After the windshield is treated you run the blades dry on the windshield for 5 minutes and this forms a barrier on the glass. (can you imagine running any other blade dry?)

    I can't recommend them highly enough. You can go to ipdusa.com and see they have been recommending them for NW Volvo folks for many years with great success. I purchased ours on Amazon and prefer the Super Sporza for the front windshield. They have a spoiler to create a stronger contact on the glass while driving at high speeds.

    I do not recommend OEM as they usually cost too much. Most other brands do not last more than one season and require replacing the whole assembly which is a waste of money and resources.

  • Where to go for old car parts & service?
    Avatar_default

    There's a shop up in Lynnwood that specializes in old Chrysler products: http://www.jcauto.com/whoarewe.html

  • My old car doesn’t have anti-lock brakes, should I adjust my driving style?
    Wa_usa_small

    Give yourself a little extra distance, especially on wet pavement.

    Also, I would HIGHLY recommend that you go find an empty parking lot and practice "doing it wrong." Slam on the brakes and let them lock up, so you know what it feels like. Then repeat the exercise, but this time take it to lockup but then pump, pump, pump to get out of trouble. Knowing your old car's limits, and what it feels like in a problem situation is a good thing.

    That way, if it ever happens in real life you won't panic because you'll know what to do.

  • Why are Edmunds.com total market value estimates consistently lower than Kelly's Blue Book?
    Beep_small

    KBB values are easy to make screwy. They have an assigned value for trim levels, but then they also assign values for those equipment boxes you can check and uncheck. Even if any given piece of equipment is required or unavailable for any given trim level. So you can have an artificially high or low price depending on how much the standard equipment is being stacked on by those you-choose-it equipment toggles - that's part of it.

    KBB also sells products for dealers to put on their own web sites, so their non-private values are inherently skewed in the dealer's favor. Edmunds doesn't sell any kind of on-site widgety things like KBB does (if they do I've never seen it here in my work), so their pricing is probably more realistic.

    Either way, your best bet for actual used car values is the final selling price for similar cars on eBay. Look at completed listings for cars at a similar mileage and equipment level. This is a solid number to stand on - it's what real people have actually paid for that given car.

  • Will electric cars create a whole new class of mechanic?
    Cappa_small

    If I recall correctly, in "Who Killed The Electric Car?," the filmmakers interviewed an EV-1 mechanic who talked about how easy maintenance was. No more oil changes, no more dirty air filters, no more gross toxic engine coolant requiring regular changes. And if I'm not mistaken, no multi-gear transmissions or clutches to lubricate, wear out, replace, etc.

    So what all-electric vehicles will do, in all likelihood, is eliminate, decimate, or force the metamorphosis of traditional auto industry clusters--parts manufacturers and supply chains, repair shops, emissions testing and certification, the whole nine. The Li-ion batteries are estimated (if not warranteed) to keep at least 80% of their charge for 7 to 8 years. There might be some new work around replacing and recycling batteries, but otherwise I'd think mechanics would have to busy themselves doing traditional body/hardware/electronics repair.

  • Oil Filter Change questions: How does the rubber ring work?
    Avatar_default

    I believe most of the "rubber" seals in car engines are in fact chemically closer to Neoprene, and far more resilient than natural rubber.

    The layer of oil you spread on the new gasket keeps it from stretching or bunching up when you tighten the filter, thus improving the seal.

    And anyway, there's 60 psi of hot motor oil inside of that gasket most of the time. The thin film you spread on with your finger is a drop in the bucket.

  • Do Corolla transmissions self destruct by 200,000 miles or something?
    N510833790_3563_small

    A well serviced and not beat on modern transmission should last 200,000 miles most of the time. But it can vary from transmission to transmission. Do you know if it was well cared for and had it's fluid changed often?

  • Is parking for 60 secs with your hazards on a traffic infraction?
    161428_585013746_2939267_n_small

    I had a really snarky response typed, but you seem to be asking a genuine question, so I'll cut to the chase. It is a parking violation, though it's unlikely that a cop will happen by during that short time frame. However, those spots are designated for handicapped people for a reason. Please take the time to find a regular spot, even if it's just for a minute. Besides possibly getting a ticket, those batty old women can really pack a wallop with their purses and canes!

  • Is there any 4-hr parking on Capitol Hill?
    Tonks_small

    The 3 blocks of angle parking on 11th Ave between Pine and Denny have the electronic meters and a 4 hour maximum.

    http://web1.seattle.gov/sdot/seattleparkingmap/

  • What kind of used car should I buy? (needs to work for transporting kids and camping)
    Cateyes_small

    One point about the Hondas being expensive -- they are expensive because they are well-made cars that will run FOREVER and continue to get great gas mileage well beyond 200k. It depends on what you want to pay for.

    I drive a 2003 Subaru Forester, and while yes, it does make me feel like a soccer mom, it is comfortable and a great "adventuring" car. I'm the only person in my group of friends who has a reliable car, so when I got it, I wanted something that would carry four people plus gear into the mountains for several days (or several bicycles, or whatever). I love the hatchback-style trunk door, as it is great for standing under and gearing up/changing in the rain. It has higher clearance than most other cars in its class (which is why I didn't go for the sexier and sportier Impreza), and is AWESOME on dirt roads and snow (it has AWD). Mine is a manual, and we sometimes end up in some pretty remote places with terrrrrrrible roads. It hasn't let me down yet.

    The gas mileage is ok, not brilliant -- I get between 23-28 miles to the gallon, depending on driving (city vs freeway).

    On the money side, older subarus can be very reasonable in terms of price, and maintain their value for a long, long time. A well-cared for subaru will go to 250-300k miles. I bought my car when it was six years old and 75k miles for $11,500. This was the oldest used car that my bank would let me buy with a pre-approved loan, and they insisted that they would only issue the loan if the car was priced at or below Blue Book value. The car was originally listed at $14,500. The dealer, after some thought, was happy to sell me the car for Blue Book value and trade in on my old car, since I had the loan in hand.

    This is the second subaru I've owned, and I'm very happy with it. That said, we had subarus when I was growing up (learned to drive in one!), and I've now thoroughly drunk the seattle/subaru/snow/outdoor craziness kool-aid.

    So, your own mileage may vary (ha!), but it's definitely worth looking at the older subarus. If you go this route, feel free to ask further questions -- I can give you a sense of what to look for in an older car.

  • Someone stole the "11" tab off my license plate. How do I get a replacement?
    2008_0522stuff0016_small

    Your stickers are your tabs. Go to your DMV equivalent and explain the problem in person. Then, when you get your new stickers (which may require paying for them again, unfortunately, especially if you never reported the original tabs stolen), install them on your plates and use a razor blade to slash across the stickers in an X pattern. That way, if someone tries to steal them again, they'll just get a useless fragment and it's usually much easier to get them replaced if you have 75% of the tab instead of 0%.

  • Car won't start after detailing. Any ideas?
    Avatar_default

    Did you drive it home from the detailer or was it a they come to you deal? Did you try to jump it?

    The simplest explanation is that the detailer drained the battery by leaving the door open or playing the radio or something while he was working. Actually starting your engine takes significantly more energy than any of the electronic accessories, so the battery can be discharged to the point that it won't start, but all the gizmos will work just fine. Often this results in the clickity click sound.

    I'd start out trying to jump it if you haven't tried that already. It could also just be a problem with the battery or the starter and the timing is just a coincidence.

  • Are Subarus, Toyotas, and Hondas with over 100K miles reliable?
    Avatar_default

    By the time you're looking at a car that old, the condition of the particular example you're looking at is much more important than make and model. I would take a car with a glovebox full of service receipts over an ostensibly more reliable make any day.

    Subarus are trickier than usual used car bets because (in addition to oil problems and head gasket issues on some some models) they have very sensitive all-wheel drive systems. That AWD system is by far the most capable in any reasonably-priced car, but it comes with the drawback of being very sensitive to abuse. This includes serious damage that can be done by circumference mismatch on the tires-- in other words if all four tires are not the same type and about the same wear it will seriously damage the transmission over time. On a car with 100k miles, it is basically impossible to know if someone drove around with the spare on for too long or if someone had a blow out and didn't replace all 4 tires like you're supposed to. They're reasonably reliable and capable cars, especially if you drive in the snow a lot, but I think they're risky used car picks.

    As for Hondas and Toyotas, they are absolutely reliable past 100K if they've received reasonably good care. However, they hold their value quite well so they're expensive. In my opinion, the quality of the domestics (GM and Ford at least) has caught up to a degree that the huge premium Japanese cars command used is no longer justified. In other words, you end up paying much more for a 100k Toyota Corolla than a 100K Chevy Malibu (for example) OR you end up being able to buy a much newer Malibu for the same money. Even though the Toyota might be slightly more reliable on paper, your Chevy is half the age and will end up being more reliable for your money. The Koreans also hugely improved during the last decade (2000's) and so used Hyundais especially can be good bets for the same reason.

    Either way, getting a prospective car inspected by an independent mechanic is much more important that fretting over what particular model you're looking at. Cars that are inherently unreliable really aren't sold in this country any more and so ANY car made in the last 15-20 years can be reliable at least past 200k if treated properly.

  • What's the best snow route (via car/truck) for getting up Queen Anne hill?
    Icon_small

    Gilman heading up the west side of Queen Anne from 15th doesn't seem as steep as the other routes.

  • parking meters: why does the meter say "Insert & remove quickly", but it doesn't work that way at all??
    Nyan-cat-ftw-video2463_small

    Well you insert it, and then (at a later time) remove it quickly.

  • Why does I-5 curve west around 75th street, then curves back east after passing northgate? Why not just go straight, east of Northgate mall?
    Wa_usa_small

    There are three reasons Interstate 5 jogs west in that area:

    1) To avoid the electrical substation in the vicinity of NE 75th St (props to the Rev. for getting that one)

    2) To avoid Northgate Mall (props to Sacrelicious on that one).

    3) To avoid the Maple Leaf Reservoir at Roosevelt and NE 82nd.

    HistoryLink, the great Seattle history website run by the Museum of History and Industry has a really good rundown of all this info:

    http://www.historylink.org/index.cfm?DisplayPage=output.cfm&file_id=4166

  • How to help my truck that does poorly in the winter?
    Avatar_default

    Actual winter tires are probably overkill for the Seattle area unless you go into the mountains a lot, but a good set of AT tires can perform pretty well in snow without having the drawbacks of winter tires.

    You might look at something like the BF Goodrich KO Radials: http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/name/all-terrain-t-a-ko-tires

    These are AT's so they're designed primarily as an on-road tire, but they're just about the most aggressive tread you can get in an on-road tire. I had a set on an old Toyota pickup, which was a 4x4, but they did pretty well in snow even in 2wd. They're also great on wet dirt roads.

  • What should I do with a car that is going to be undriven over a winter?
    Avatar_default

    Option B minus the tarp is probably the best option. Letting a car sit for a few months isn't a problem at all. Just make sure the gas tank is full to prevent condensation in the tank. Fuel stabilizer is cheap peace of mind, but probably isn't necessary for a few months.

    Also, don't bother putting a tarp over it-- unless you have an actual purpose-made car cover, a tarp will just trap moisture and scratch the paint. Just leaving a car out in the winter isn't bad for it at all-- it's driving around in the snow and sand and salt that ruins cars out in snow country.

    Pulling the battery and storing it inside is also definitely a good idea, although if it's a few years old, you might just plan on getting a new one when you get back. If nothing else, you should just disconnect the (-) cable. Also, if the car is due for an oil change, do that now.

  • What do I do when I've been the victim of a hit and run?
    Medium_2868373187_b2c11c89cf_o_small

    Was your bike damaged in any way?

    If so, look into small claims court. Take pictures of the BMW and your bike in its current position. Get a picture of the plates on the BMW. See if anyone else saw it.

    If there is damage you can probably get the money from them through court.

    You can also leave a message on the BMW and tell them that someone told you what happened and that you filed a report with the police. They may be willing to contact you and pay for any damages. You could also politely say that you have pictures of their plates, and are willing to go to small claims court.

    Up to you how threatening you really wanna be about it.

  • Is entering an intersection while waiting to turn left on a green light illegal in Seattle/WA?
    Avatar_default

    This is the relevant RCW page: http://apps.leg.wa.gov/rcw/default.aspx?cite=46.61.055

    It doesn't specifically mention this situation, just that "Vehicle operators turning right or left shall stop to allow other vehicles lawfully within the intersection control area to complete their movements.", which to me doesn't necessarily mean you can't enter the intersection.

    However, probably the reason why people think this is illegal is that it is explicitly illegal in California and it is of course a well-accepted fact that all the bad drivers in the Seattle area are, in fact, Californians.

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Recent Comments
  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    Ah, I see. If your family is 100% manual, that rules. Your reasoning is sound. If you get the clutch, it becomes second nature.

    But I also agree whole heartedly with Russ. The manual shifting skills above and beyond standard driving skills for the rest of us, it can come later.

    However, I had always heard that a manual transmission was more fuel efficient that automatic, cause the driver can assess and adapt to conditions better than an automatic will. (However, once up to speed on a highway, I have heard that automatic transmissions are just as efficent.)

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    David,
    I would like to urge you to work out some way to have an automatic transmission car available for extended experience and practice leading up to the demonstration test for her permanent license. Could you work out a trade with a neighbor or friend for some hours per week (have to talk to your insurance company to be sure).

    Now it was many decades ago but I will relate how my folks worked out a great way for me to learn. We had one automatic (sedan) and one standard transmission car (Volkswagen bug) in the family. I learned at school in the school's automatic transmission cars and drove occasionally with my folks (but it was stressful - Dad was a better teacher than Mom - too nervous, ha!). Then as I finished up the school program my parents arranged for a driving tutor to pick me up after school and go out for a couple of hours a day for a week or so (I think they bought a package of a defined amount of hours) and practice all the separate skills we had learned at school and that would be on the skills test (parallel parking, three point turnaround, etc.) as well as just plain driving different types of roads and dealing with multiple lane roads and how to get through complex intersections.

    Then on the last day the instructor took me down to the DMV and I took my driving demonstration test. As I remember it, the written test was taken before this day (they were separate events) - this was in Florida and at that time you could just show up and take the driving exam (waiting in order if there were others before you). The KEY was I took the test in the EXACT same vehicle that I had been getting all that extra practice in with the hired instructor. I knew just how to parallel park that car and felt very much at ease in driving it also.

    Then after that was finished, my older brother took me out to some small streets and low traffic areas and taught me to drive the standard transmission. I knew how to drive, I just had to add the skills on how to start up smoothly and shift and what to do when coming to a stop, and downshifting when necessary. It was easy to add that on top of the skills I already had in driving.

    Now as to the prevalence of standard transmissions, they may be a little less common nowadays but I have driven a standard transmission vehicles for over 40 years. I did have an automatic for a short while when I had a hand-me-down vehicle for a few years, but have always thought that I had much more control and safer in driving with a standard transmission (not to mention better fuel efficiency). When J bought her 2005 Honda we waited for a standard model to be brought in (she has always driven them also). I don't think I would drive anything else (until I get my first all electric someday).

    I do get a chuckle every now and then when I read about someone trying to steal or jack a car and in the end they have to run away because they get in and find three pedals and don't know what to do.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    2-jacob_20lawrence_20-_20the_20builders_2c_20the_20family_20-_20serigraph_1__small

    Thanks Captain. Appreciate the insightful thoughts. We are a 100% manual household. Getting her over that hump is really going to be my first focus. Once you get it with a clutch, it becomes second nature pretty quickly -- and then we can go out on the road.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    I would not start with teaching a child to drive on a manual shift with clutch... unless ALL your vehicles have this. In today's world, there is no need to give them the added worry of shifting while trying to coordinate driving skills.

    I Agree, a professional training course can't be beat, but you can suppliment.
    (Also, remember if you speed or ask others to watch for cops, you will teach your child to do the same.)

    I do think it's valuable to teach manual shifting to every driver...in case of emergency... and to give them better sense of how a car operates. But so few cars depend on that now, that it's almost a forgotten art.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    I agree with the need to remain unemotional. When I taught my daughter to drive, we did this in advance of the driving ed class, but also with the understanding that she would only practice with a parent, in a deserted parking lot, and no matter what happens, we would never yell. She executed some rolling stops...running through a stop sign (in the lot, no cross traffic at all) and while we corrected her, we NEVER yelled "STOP!" We did get her comfortable with signaling her intent well before she did anything. And stressed that just because she signalled what she wanted to do, that didn't give her the right. Safety and the other driver ALWAYS reigns supreme.

    Also, we bought a trio of yellow magnetic signs for use all around our car when she practiced and later, when driving with a parent under permit. This REALLY helped...I saw more courtesy, backing off, and consideration from other drivers than I have EVER seen before. And I took to leaving those signs on when I drove... it gave me an added layer of safety and buffer zone that they afford her, the new driver also.

    For $14-19 bucks on ebay, you can't beat this simple investment in safety!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    2-jacob_20lawrence_20-_20the_20builders_2c_20the_20family_20-_20serigraph_1__small

    Russ,

    Thanks and completely agree re: parent/child dynamics. That's why we went to a math tutor years ago.

    We are enrolled in drivers ed, but that only provides a fraction of the hours needed to graduate. Beyond that, we are at ground zero, which starts with the fundamentals of using a clutch.

    Poor kid has to learn how to drive the old fashioned way!

    Cheers.

  • Comment on John Bailo's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    Spot on.

    We were all shocked when my Mom's minivan was stolen out of the Northgate Park and Ride back in 1998. They found it in south Seattle a day later, full of fast food wrappers and a Da Brat cassette tape. Just a joyride. Cost us a new steering column, though.

  • Comment on Sacrelicious's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    Also, I found that 100% of the instances of me setting the alarm off were from hitting the wrong button on the clicker. I hate sudden loud noises and I figured I wasn't about to suddenly become any more coordinated, so I just ditched the clicker. Never been a problem since, and I haven't missed it. Just the key is fine.

  • Comment on soundslikepuget's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    SLP gave you great advice in his original answer.

    I would say you should insist on seeing the current registration document or title (if it is available) - you can purchase a vehicle where the title has been lost, but it requires some extra steps to ensure that it has a valid title. A photocopy could really represent an altered document and I would ask to see the real thing to get whatever information you want/need to do your research to determine if you are going to buy it.

    No one in their right mind is going to lay down that much money with the stipulation that the documentation can't be viewed until the deal is struck. If the seller insists on that, WALK AWAY. You may be dealing with a curb-stoner or someone that is selling a vehicle with a reconstructed title. This is where a vehicle was officially decommissioned due to being previously judged as totaled and a new title issued after extensive repair work was done or two or more vehicles combined to make a useable car.

    Getting tricked into paying too much for a bad vehicle will never be worth it. Don't be fooled. Stand your ground and get the documentation!

  • Comment on soundslikepuget's answer…
    Charlie-on-motorcycle_small

    Is it wrong to ask to see proof of ownership on a vehicle you're looking to buy, like a photocopy of a Title of Registration? I haven't seen where this is a bad or good idea, and the owner is unwilling to make a photocopy or let me see it until it is signed over.
    Two websites: autos.msn.com and smartmotorist.com recommend the prospective buyer ask to see at least a photocopy of the title.

  • Comment on Tom's answer…
    2008_0522stuff0016_small

    1) you've got an old Honda. It's going to burn oil, so you'll need to stay on top of that. It's got a wet clutch, so you'll need to keep it lubed/greased, and it's got carbs which, while it usually isn't terribly difficult, will require adjusting and potentially rebuilding if the bike has been parked for 25 years with varnished fuel. Chain drive, so you'll have to check the tension and wear.

    2) Not sure what kind of clutch this has, but it probably won't leak/burn as much oil as the Honday. It's got fuel injection, so there's no carb futzing. Belt final drive, so you have to check the stretch but with that few miles you've got very little to worry about.

    Both bikes are air cooled, which is simpler to deal with.

    Are you thinking of buying one or the other bike? What you should get depends on which is more comfortable for you to ride, firstly, and secondarily your aptitude and patience for mechanical stuff.

    My father in law would go for the Honda, but he likes to do all his own repairs. However, even in perfect mechanical shape, it won't have the guts of the Suzuki, so not a great choice if you want something for the highways. Bike shops will gladly fix a newer Suzuki for you, if you don't want to do your own work, but you'll pay for the privilege.

    Either way, should you get a bike, get the Clymer guide or the factory book on it. They're not that expensive and are quite handy.

  • Comment on Tom's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    For argument's sake, lets compare a 1982 Honda CM450E with 27,000 miles on it...
    compared with a Susiki 650 Boulevard with, say, 5,000 miles on it. Maybe a 2002 model... something somewhat newer.

  • Comment on lilmonster206's answer…
    Finn3goof_small

    legal-ish, I should have said...

  • Comment on lilmonster206's answer…
    Finn3goof_small

    It's legal.

  • Comment on soundslikepuget's answer…
    Img_2371_small

    Re: merging, I just want to add that I have slowed down to allow people to enter when they're slightly ahead of me and not speeding up; I don't trust them not to suddenly merge just barely in front of me. My Seattle-specific driving peeve is people making left turns out of driveways right in front of my oncoming car, so I assume any driver could be carelessly suicidal.

  • Comment on soundslikepuget's answer…
    Ozomahtli_small

    Yes yes yes to everything you said about terrible WA drivers. It's all compounded by the fact that they think they are good drivers. And don't even get me started about not-existent or last-possible-moment turn signaling.

  • Comment on Sacrelicious's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    How's it going? Feeling better, I hope?

  • Comment on Falcon's answer…
    Atessoue_small

    Ha, that was smart of you. I didn't even think about the future construction. XP I'm going to be in an apartment I'm sure so I'll be perhaps a bit more mobile but thanks, I'll definitely take the future construction into mind.

    It's going to be weird moving back to a place that actually has a commute.

  • Comment on MyrnaMinkoff's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    Can you lobby the administration to add the run that you're looking for? Especially of others add their voices as well?

  • Comment on MyrnaMinkoff's answer…
    Atessoue_small

    I see. Yeah, 200$ more is tough to stomach. Well if lots of people are doing the same then perhaps the amount of buses in Seattle will increase.

    Thanks for sharing.^_^

  • Comment on MyrnaMinkoff's answer…
    Charlie-on-motorcycle_small

    When did the 5th Ave NE Park & Ride just north of NE 145th close? It seems the 243 runs from NE 148th & 5th Ave NE to downtown Bellevue without going to downtown Seattle.

  • Comment on Tom's answer…
    Charlie-on-motorcycle_small

    I am happy a Seattle motorcyclist weighed in on this, because I'm paying $240+ year for my 400cc scooter, and that's with multiple-policy, safe driving discounts, and knowing that you pay $100+ for your policy (no one has ever compared policies with me) is interesting.

    I have been riding for six years, and have lived in Seattle for longer. I consider my CVT 400cc behemoth better for the environment and safer/faster than bicycling with traffic. For parking, I write my license plate number on the slips, so no one can use my parking sticker without the Parking Enforcement knowing they stole it.

    Washington State Ferries give motorcyclists privileges, employer parking is more accessible, I was hoping that the City of Seattle would recognize motorcycles and scooters as preferable to the four-wheel vehicles like other cities around the world (Osaka, Toronto, Rome). The City of Seattle bylaws aren't as "evolved" or "world-class" as they could be.

  • Comment on IsadoraWing's answer…
    Rex_racer_small

    holyshit - Dave Matthews? I'm more annoyed than ever - I had no idea there were so many DMB fans and so oddly passionate

    thank you for the great answer though

    with your help I looked deeper -- wikipedia says it was the art for the album 'stand up' and dave drew it to represent "what he sees when he looks out at the crowd at live performances"

  • Comment on hardc0reflower's answer…
    Clothing

    Hey! Thanks for the Shroom, ChlorophyllLover! I'm glad it worked out for you : )

  • Comment on sublevelthree's answer…
    Hawaii_3_luau_whales_ioa_014_small

    That is, UNLESS YOUR TIRES HAVE BEEN MARKED (CHALKED) BY AN OFFICER OVERNIGHT!

  • Comment on hardc0reflower's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    RacerX,

    Booyah!

    http://questionland.com/questions/2368-can-someone-explain-a-bit-about-the-mushroom-thing-on-questionland

    => a question posed more than a year before you signed up here

    =>mushroomed answer written by the person who currently holds the overall #2 reputation score of all participants on Qland (RM) - and an absolutely delightful person I might add

    =>answer confirmed by the Questionland Elf (who prompted the awarding of the 'Shroom)

    By the way, I must give my thanks to the weighting of the search function to antiquity answers for finding this. I guess sometimes it isn't a bug, but could be a feature ;0)

    Thank you Questionland Elf and Qland Mod

  • Comment on hardc0reflower's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    I guess you had to be there at the time.

  • Comment on RacerX's answer…
    Kali_small

    Thanks for your answer! It was a funny read first thing in the morning-- Ignore the smells! You wore big shoes!

    Good stuff, good stuff-- It's been 2+ weeks now & I'm feeling awesome about my hill starts (no hand brake). But your answer reinforces my confidence b/c there were a couple instances of funny smells..!

  • Comment on hardc0reflower's answer…
    Rex_racer_small

    Please let us know where on the website the "when to award a shroom" rules or expectations are posted? -- I always thought it was up to the OP to decide when & if

  • Comment on Fnarf's answer…
    Rex_racer_small

    "Never drive on 405 unless it's 3:30 AM."

    amen to that