Shannon,
Washington law requires that your employer hold your job and provide certain benefits. The Washington Human Rights Commission issued regulations, which state:
(4) Leave policies.

(a) An employer shall provide a woman a leave of absence for the period of time that she is sick or temporarily disabled because of pregnancy or childbirth. Employers must treat a woman on pregnancy related leave the same as other employees on leave for sickness or other temporary disabilities. For example:

(i) If an employer provides paid leave for sickness, or other temporary disabilities, the employer should provide paid leave for pregnancy related sickness or disabilities; ...

(iv) If the employer permits extensions of leave time (e.g., use of vacation or leave without pay) for sickness or other temporary disabilities, the employer should permit such extensions for pregnancy related sickness or disabilities.

(b) There may be circumstances when the application of the employer's general leave policy to pregnancy or childbirth will not afford equal opportunity for women and men. One circumstance would be where the employer allows no leave for any sickness or other disability by any employee, or so little leave time that a pregnant woman must terminate employment. Because such a leave policy has a disparate impact on women, it is an unfair practice, unless the policy is justified by business necessity.

(c) An employer shall allow a woman to return to the same job, or a similar job of at least the same pay, if she has taken a leave of absence only for the actual period of disability relating to pregnancy or childbirth. Refusal to do so must be justified by adequate facts concerning business necessity.

The cutoff for having to pay state business tax is $12,000 per year.

No matter the case, you should still register your business with the State of Washington and fill out the forms for a Master Business License:

http://bls.dor.wa.gov/

They will send you the appropriate tax documents based on your income. Once you enter a total margin less than $12,000 it will say that you do not have to pay.

This question is hard to answer without more information, because how much income you report is going to depend on how the LLC is structured for accounting and tax purposes. If you haven't already consulted a CPA, I think finding one who has experience with LLCs would be a good idea - especially before you file taxes for 2011.

No matter what, the $6000 you've put into the LLC is an investment - it's your owner's equity. It's not a loan that the business pays back; you don't get the entire equity back unless you close the business or sell your share.

You take the LLC's gross income and subtract operating expenses to get net income or net loss for the LLC. The amount of net income is added to owner's equity on the books. The amount of net loss is subtracted from owner's equity.

The default for single-member LLCs is to be treated as a sole proprietorship for tax & accounting purposes. Any net income (or loss) for the LLC is reported on your 1040 & related schedules. Having net income on the books that you report does not mean you are getting any cash for personal use - you usually have to keep money invested while the business is growing.

After the business has been profitable, you can start taking withdrawals against your owner's equity. The money you take as a withdrawal lowers the total equity, but doesn't affect net income or loss for the LLC. Eventually you will probably build up enough equity to get back the $6000, but it can take awhile. I'm pretty sure that you personally wouldn't count any withdrawals on your initial investment as income, but that's something to look into.

There are options to set up the LLC as a corporation, which could be better for you as far as reporting income for taxes, but this requires more paperwork with the IRS and Washington State.

It's possible that there won't be any income from the LLC in 2012 - corporations regularly match expenses to income to avoid paying taxes, so I don't see why you can't take advantage of that. You also need to find out how often you are required to report any income - monthly, annually, etc.

The main factor, I think, is going to be whether you meet the minimum search requirements - be able to work, actively seek work, and available to start when you are offered suitable work.

(Accidentally put this as a comment to an earlier reply).
I believe the benefit deduction for earned income is either 75% or 80%. But starting a small business is not the same as earning temporary income. If you're working at your business full time you might not be entitled to ANY benefits, whether you have an income or not.

Have you filed a claim before? From what I remember there was a list of check boxes to report any: wages, self-employed earnings, other income.

For instance I was on the dole for a few weeks and then came into some temp work. My first week of employment I only worked a couple days. I still made my unemployment claim for that week. When making my claim, for the question of "did you earn any money?", I answered "yes" and then was prompted to list: hours, wage amount and business name. The wage info was used in calculating the amount of the unemployment insurance I was to receive.

I do not know the answer to your whole question, but I will share this with you: I spoke to someone at WorkSource yesterday and they told me that there is about a $40 in reduction in benefits for every $60 in reported income. It's not a straight dollar for dollar deduction. If you report $120 in income, expect to see $80 knocked off your unemployment check. That was according to an older gentleman who has worked there for a long time, drawing from his observational experience. But, things may vary on a case by case basis.

Sorry I can't help you with the rest of your question. Best of luck with your business!

I'm not an expert on the ID verification requirements for opening new accounts but this seems ridiculous to me. The only time I've had to use a utility bill for verification was when I lost my driver's license.

I have opened a few different banking accounts in the last couple of years - an IRA CD with BECU, a couple of online savings accounts when I was rate-chasing, a checking account at Viking Bank so I could use their coin machine. I've never had to do more than show my photo ID and a credit card to prove who I am. My boyfriend has never had to provide a copy of his phone bill to open 401(k)s through previous employers; I don't see why this should be different.

The only legitimate reason I can think of is that something about your employee triggered a flag for additional verification - maybe he doesn't have much of a credit record? Maybe the name on the phone bill not matching his name raised a flag? Maybe someone has stolen his identity and committed fraud?

I'm also wondering how much your Morgan Stanley rep values your business - maybe I'm reading too much into his response to your questions, but it sounds like the same quasi-dismissive attitude that a lot of big banks and firms have towards individuals & small business owners. You and your employee deserve a better explanation, or an alternative, before turning over the phone bill. I'm with you in questioning this.

I second agness' notion to also look into small community banks as well as credit unions.

While many of the CU's are PERFECT for individuals, as a business, you may have more "in house" needs, rather than just ATM/online banking options.

I think one of the biggest considerations is going to be what physical branch locations are convenient for you. You'll want something that isn't TOO hard to reach, so you can make deposits, get things notarized, etc. Also, as a small business, I find it's important to actually make several transactions in person, to get to know the staff and branch manager. We've been with Sound Community Bank for over a year now, and it's been a great transition (formerly with Fremont Bank, which became Northstar, which then became Frontier, which got consumed by the HORRIBLE giant Union Bank...we could not get out of their fast enough. Union Bank actually said "we are not interested in small construction businesses. You should take your banking elsewhere." So we did!!). I've also heard great things about Umpqua Bank.

Some of the credit unions could also be PERFECT for you. But I think finding a branch (or two) that is convenient for your office and your employees, is a top priority. Good luck!!

I don't know the answer but I wanted to put it out there that you might also want to consider smaller regional banks. WA Federal was one of two banks which kept it's top 4-star rating through the worst of the crisis.

Sound Community Bank is another, which actually started originally as a C.U.

Umpqua Bank (from Oregon) bought out Evergreen and is expanding. My company does banking with them and I know a non-profit who worked with them when they were Evergreen.

There is also Seattle Savings, Banner Bank and People's Savings, Sterling Savings (still not that strong financially), and Home Street Bank (was having some issues due to the financial crisis and still isn't fully recuperated) that I can think of off the top of my head.

While a lawyer could probably do this, I would first ask your accountant or financial advisor if they could do it. Will you want to write this off on your taxes? If so, you'll need to donate to a non-profit foundation on behalf of your school - often the PTA or like foundation is set up as a 501(3)(c), so you can take the write off.

Then, your accountant's going to want the receipt for your taxes - he could inquire with the institution, make a donation (of your funds, but from his trust account) and get a receipt that he could include with some sort of form indicating that the receipt is for you? Just spitballing here, but I think it could be done, and cheaply.

Not really the same as point of sale debit card swipe fees but if any local merchants sell online then maybe they feel this pinch too:

"Dwolla started out of my old company. I owned a speaker manufacturing company and we sold everything directly through a website. I got really obsessed with interchange fees and how not to pay them. Every time a merchant gets paid with a credit card they have to give up a percentage. In my case, I was losing $55,000 a year to credit card companies. I felt like they were stealing from me -- I was getting paid and somebody was taking money out of my pocket."

Read more: http://www.businessinsider.com/this-28-year-old-is-making-sure-credit-cards-wont-exist-in-the-next-few-years-2011-11#ixzz1eCE80Xhm

No one person or entity sets the price of the shares. The company's market value is exactly that: "market" value. It is the price at which people are trading the shares right now, and that is influenced by what analysts are estimating to be the value of the company.

You're right in saying the analysts are wrong, and that's exactly why the stock price goes down. People trade based on the analyses, and if the company's numbers come in low it just means that the price was inflated.

The short answer is that you are right and that it is pretty stupid. But there are good reasons in theory for why this happens.

In theory... analysts are looking at the market for the company's product(s) and at what rate it is growing/shrinking. They look at the current market share of the company and project revenues based on expected market share. They talk to the management of the company and ask them what they expect to achieve. They look at competitors etc.

Putting all that together, they say the company SHOULD achieve X. If the company does NOT achieve X it is taken to mean that the company has underperformed i.e.:

1. Management didn't accurately project their business performance. BAD.
2. They lost market share. BAD
3. and so on...

Based on this the investors are disappointed because they expected the analysts to be right - and had they been right the stock value would increase. Since they were wrong the stock will probably be worth less than they had hoped so they sell it.

Hi Elle Elle,

I'm no expert on gold, particularly not gold coins. I can give you some very basic advice though:

1. Typically gold coins are worth more than gold bullion. People want minted coins more than bars. This is particularly true for American Eagles, Krugerands etc. i.e. coins that have been marketed are in currencies that we know and value. Also coins have collector value, particularly if they are uncirculated.

2. Your coin, unfortunately sits at the bottom of the collectors list because it is no longer a popular coin and there were so many struck that they are not that hard to find. Still the fact that it is uncirculated should help.

3. You have about 1.2 ounces of gold in that coin which means it should be worth about $2,100 melted down - and ideally worth more as an uncirculated coin. gold bid is $1743, but you have a little more than 1.2 oz. so that's about right.

4. I would NOT sell it on eBay. I would call a local coin shop and ask them what they would give you for it. Then I'd do a little Internet research and see if any online dealers would give you more. Choose someone national/reputable.

I don't see any reason to pay a fee for selling the coin. One of the great attractions of Gold is that it is very easily bought and sold (i.e. liquid).

Good luck and enjoy the proceeds. Also, don't feel rushed into anything. Gold should hold up fine despite the usual fluctuations.

That's Theft in my mind. He's a thief first, an ex second.
Don't mess around with promises, it IS his responsibility -- get cash. And soon. In 30 days that 3800 dollars becomes on its way to messing up your credit and adding interest, right? In 90 days that $3800 (or whatever's left) becomes official and can drag your 3 digit number down.

If it were me, I might give him a Net 30 timeline to pay it all back, and if he didn't pay back the debt, it might be within one's rights (and intent of the law) to place a call to your card company and the authorities to inform them that all of those charges were unauthorized (i.e. theft/fraud). If asked something like 'why didn't you report it earlier?' the answer is simply "that was part of the fraud: the bad info was kept from me - the fact that everything wasn't okay and fine was part of the fraud."

You noted that they are co-owners. The Report of Sale for boats in Washington state requires all owners sign off before any sale is considered legal.  So, neither of them should be able to own it or even sell it until they can come to mutual agreement.  Of course, this doesn't stop all ignorant buyers and DOL agents from neglecting to check, but it should give her a modicum of legal traction for a lawsuit if he tries to sell it out from under her.

If he wants full ownership and therefore use, he should offer to buy her half out at a fair half price. If he wants to claim full use by passive-aggressively using her as a doormat, she might not feel bad to start the process of selling it out from under him, 

or

she could take soundslikepuget's advice and moor it near the Canadian border to put the whole process nicely on hold.   I know a handful of process server and bounty hunter types that would take on such a gig at just the cost of expenses (train/bus ticket back home from her and a beer from me), considering her story.  Guemes Island is good: no WSF service to it.

Cancel the credit card. You can try to get him to sign a contract where he specifies that he will repay you for that amount, but maybe check with a lawyer first to make sure the contract will be valid in court. If he doesn't pay you back, you'll have to take him to court and it's better to have something solid. (What Russ said.)

If he's not an authorized user of your account (like he ordered stuff online using your card) you should call the bank and tell them those charges weren't authorized. If this was the case he could potentially be charged with fraud, and you'd probably have to call the police too.

You have every right to be upset about this - he has no right to be upset because he is the one who violated your trust by using a credit card that you are responsible for.

There is no recognition of common law marriage in Washington State.

The problem for you is that it is YOUR Master Card account that has the charges on it and unfortunately that is YOUR debt. A paper signed by him saying the debt is his would not be recognized by your credit card company or bank as they vetted you for the account and you are the owner of it.

It seems that you are splitting amicably and his statement seems to recognize that and implies that he will be paying it off. It appears if you are to have any paper signed between you then you should have it written up as a loan between you two (you to him) with a repayment schedule in the agreement. Then if he does not pay up you can take him to court over the reneging of the loan.

Unfortunately, as it stands the debt to the credit card company is your financial responsibility. In light of answers recently given to a question I posed I will refer you to resources mentioned in those answers (credit given to those persons posting the answers).

I agree with everybody who has suggested that she get a lawyer. That is step one.

That having been said, it sounds like this guy is going to be a dick about the situation, so your friend might need to "out dick the dick."

I'd double check with the lawyer, but my instinct is to take the boat and hide it. Sail it up to the San Juans or out to Neah Bay. Pay one of the small marinas out there a couple hundred bucks cash to moor it for the winter while her lawyer fights with this asshole.

Then she and her lawyer can say "you want to know where the boat is shithead? Sign this, and we'll tell you." I know coves and bays on islands up there where you could stash a boat for half a decade and nobody would ever find it.

It sounds like this guy is a grade A douchebag and playing hardball is going to be necessary. So, I'd hide it until he agrees to buy out her half or sell the boat and split the profits 50/50.

I don't know the legalities involved here so again, definitely run it by the lawyer, but I can tell you that the waters of Puget Sound and the San Juans still have plenty of places you could stash it to teach this dirtbag a lesson.

Good luck, smooth sailing and following seas.

Agree with Basil - she needs a lawyer, preferably sooner rather than later in case the guy tries to sell the boat himself. I found this guide to WA property law for separating unmarried couples online, and it looks like good basic advice to me (a layperson), but not something that would replace a lawyer. Here is their advice for getting legal help in this situation:

If you have additional questions and you’re low-income and don’t live in King County, call CLEAR at 1-888-201-1014. If you live in King County, you may contact the King County Bar Association’s Neighborhood Legal Clinics (206) 267-7070 to ask for a free half-hour of legal advice. (Ask for the family law clinic.)

As far as payment, it's up to the lawyer but I'm doubtful they would agree to take fees out of the sale of the boat (aka contingent fee basis). I think usually you have to pay a retainer, and it's usually non-refundable. Here is a general description of how lawyers charge. Also make sure she asks what increments they bill in - 6 minutes, 15 minutes, etc.

I wish your friend luck & good health.

She will probably have to get a lawyer. My guess is that the guy will not want to actually sell the boat, so she will have to go to court and have him pay her the amount that the boat could sell for if he sold it right now.

There are other options, including mediation (in-court or out), or even an appointed arbitrator. All of those could be explained by a lawyer.

Not sure of any good ones in that area, but she might want to look into divorce attorneys. They probably have experience with stuff like that (even though it's not technically their area it is related). They would probably be able to give her some idea of her options. If not a divorce attorney, then a simple civil attorney would work.

finances are intangible and unimportant and have little to do with big life-changing travel: ask these guys --
http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/11-07/10-round-the-world-travel-myths-debunked.html
http://blog.homelesshapas.com/?page_id=31
http://www.vagabondquest.com/travel-links/
People ask hobos like these 'what about your things? What about savings? what about career?' and the answer is universally: 'so glad I'm not owned by them anymore!'

If travel is your sole reason for quitting, and not counterculture itself, then internet_jen linked you right - legalnomads is super-awesome. You might also try alittleadrift.com or uncorneredmarket.com

You can also check out wanderingEarl.com
- who's been a RoundTheWorld nomad since 1999.

Well, I like a little mischief now and then -- Sounds to me like it's time to go back to jai tai -with a copy of your credit card statement in hand- and collect on that second meal you paid for. Put that copy in the bill folder thing instead of your credit card, and include a note explaining to the manager the situation like you did here and call it good for payment.

"lawyers" are the services that follow your requests after death. Even crap like logging into FB and telling everyone you've kicked your bucket. Estate Lawyers. Obviously, it helps to pay them in advance and keep them posted on your passwords and what you want. But you can pretty much ask them to do whatever the hell you want, given enough money and planning.

I don't think the police can do anything. These scammers are very good at hiding their true identities. Flagging on craigslist is probably the best you can do. Sorry.

Ran into this a few years ago with a friend's father. And then NPR ran this story (the text synopsis isn't as helpful as listening to the audio file on the link) http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=104024294

Basically, as people have already stated, with your will or last wishes (or what have you), you should include username and password information, if you want your loved ones to have access. Certain sites have very strict policies and will NOT release information to the next of kin. Now, some people surely would welcome such a thing (I can imagine scenarios in which ones email is NOT an account they want their children reading). But, perhaps you would want them to be able to contact your internet social circles. So account and log in information for photosharing sites, music sites, etc. Heck, maybe you'd want someone to go tell your World of Warcraft guild that you've passed.

Many of us have multiple online social circles that may not be readily accessible to others, unless you leave written instructions and log=in codes somewhere safe.

Also, things as basic as YOUR CELLPHONE SECURITY/LOCK CODE, and your COMPUTER LOG IN information should be left somewhere. Otherwise, your family may not ever be able to retrieve family photos or other digital memories. (Of course, if you've an active sexting life or other things that you don't want shared, then maybe not). But it's something one really does have to plan for, or it'll all just be lost/frozen.