Rich and Brandy are spot on, but it does depend on what you really need. If all you need is bark then that is not too expensive to have delivered as it can be blown from a truck and placed right where you need it. there are many different kinds and some are more attractive then others and cost more. Compost and other soil ammendments can start to get a bit pricier as well.

If you just need some cheap mulch to keep down weeds call one of the local tree service folks. They need a place to dump wood chip from grinding up trees. I use Ballard Tree service. I don't recall ever getting charged from them but their quality is entirely dependent on what they just ground up. So if they have jsut taken down a cedar or doug fir (more likely) you may wind up with a hell of a lot of chopped needles.

Craigslist can also have some good deals or even free wood chip.

Pacific Topsoils is great. BUT...the delivery is what gets ya! If you have a buddy with a truck, you can save a ton - they just load it into the bed for you and its much more cost effective. Plus, they have have many locations...
www.pacifictopsoils.com

You can put it in your yard waste bin for pickup but don't put it in your compost bin for back yard composting.

Where are you located? I would take it.

The rules continue to change and become more liberal. In south King County I would not hesitate to include it in my curbside recycling. However in the interest of getting it right and for anyone who may read this question/answer in the future, the mantra is "Call your Hauler" and ask.

I have been through the full training as a Master Recycler/Composter (MRC Program) and still find myself calling and making sure I am looking at the most recent handouts as the rules continue to be updated.

No, this isn't the best time to transplant, but since the house is about to be demolished, it's either now or never.  Here’s some very good general rose transplant advice from two sources:

From the Elizabeth C. Miller Library:

“Roses: 1001 Gardening Questions Answered by the editors of Garden Way Publishing (1989), says that the best time to transplant it to its new location is early spring or late fall. Before moving it, prune it, “leaving three to four canes. Prepare the new hole in the ground (and) give it some extra attention after it is planted.” This resource says that spring transplanting is preferred, because with warm weather on the way, the rose will have a better chance of starting new growth. When digging up your rose, dig a circular trench one foot away from the crown of the plant, removing the soil around the plant with your shovel. Loosen the root ball, and then take hold of the crown and push it back and forth to loosen it. Then lift it out of the hole. Dig a deep hole in the new location. Add two inches of compost, build a mound of soil, and spread the roots over it. Fill in with topsoil, make a ridge of soil around the base of the plant, and water well. Afterwards, water carefully, neither too much nor too little.”

From Brad Jalbert and Laura Peters "Roses for Washington and Oregon" (2003):  

The authors advise caution and comment on how "transplanting roses can be complicated."  They say "Roses are said to dislike being moved once established. . . The younger the rose, the more likely it will be able to re-establish successfully when moved. . . .  If you are moving a rose to a spot where another rose previously grew, add fresh soil or lots of compost, as the previous rose may have depleted the soil of nutrients. It is equally important to use fresh soil or lots of compost when planting a new rose in a spot where a diseased rose was removed.  There may be populations of organisms in the old soil that could. . . attack the feeder roots of new roses, limiting the rose's ability to absorb water and nutrients."

Hopefully, this information will increase the probability for a successful transition into your garden.  Happy digging!

I used to see them all the time back home in Texas, but I have definitely never seen one in Seattle. I do, however, live in a very concrete-jungly area in between DT and Cap Hill. Probably the more trees around, the more likely they are to show up.

I hear there's a house in Idaho you might be interested in:

http://abcnews.go.com/US/snake-house-family-home-idaho-turns-satans-lair/story?id=13851600

I am not in Seattle but frequently see them in our yard down in Auburn. Any neighborhood with close by green space, vacant lots, or lush yards (that are pesticide free) would be likely to have some resident garter snakes.

Here is one that I spied warming in a sunny patch in the dappled light coming through the trees just off the trail at Green River Community College last September.

Common Garter Snake (Thamnophis sirtalis)

Yes, I've had these great beneficial garter snakes in my garden. For more information about snakes in Washington State see:

http://wdfw.wa.gov/living/snakes.html.

Over the years, whenever I’ve seen these skinny snakes sunning themselves on the concrete or running away from me as I’m weeding, I’m reminded of how much work they do for me. (At the same time, instinctively these slivery snakes always make me jump out of the garden bed onto safer ground!) The smallest garter snakes love to feast on slugs – and boy, do I have lots of slugs this year. These workhorses of the garden hide in groundcover and heavy foliage and often only come out to feed or seek the sun.

Snakes and frogs/toads often seek out the warmth of concrete (or grass) and can, sadly, be killed by cars, lawnmowers, weed-whackers, etc. If you’ve seen snakes or frogs in your garden, be cautious when you pull into your driveway (or trim grass or lawns, etc.).

Meanwhile, anytime you see garter snakes you can be certain your garden is being well cared for and you’ve created a healthy habitat to attract such a great beneficial predator to do your garden dirty work!  Happy gardening and keep those snakes safe!

Just don't hack your goddamn hand off.

Hardwick's

I'd suggest napalm

Bear in mind that when you find one it will be dull as a hoe, and you will have to sharpen it with a file. If it's not razor-sharp it won't cut anything, just bash it.

You might be better off with a scythe. Try a hardware store. For the heavy stuff nothing beats a great pair of clippers. Wear leather gloves.

If you truly want to go oldschool on that overgrowth, go to an Army surplus.

Keep in mind, your arm is going to get tired fast.
Push past it, feel the burn, whatever.
At the end of 4 hours, you'll hurt like hell, have sweat mixed with dead plant all over you, and you'll feel uniquely alive.

Home Depot and Lowes have had them as has Fred Meyer. I haven't noticed them there in a while but I wasn't looking. Should be near where they keep shears and loppers.

Pacific Topsoils usually will take it. They have several locations around the seattle area. Good luck!
www.pacifictopsoils.com/

If you have a place to pile it up for a week or so, you can put an ad on craigslist, freecycle, or the King County building materials exchange lists. Someone with the opposite problem may come and pick up your soil to use as fill.

Or, you can pay to have it recycled by Pacific Topsoil. You can rent a dumptruck and haul it to one of their locations, or you they will bring a container to you, for an extra fee.

Heap it up in a place visible from the street with a sign that says "FREE FILL." It's worked well for us.

Wow, I am glad Master Gardener Andrea knows her stuff, Nanc...you plum STUMPED me on this one.

I will let you in on all brassicas that grow well in our state.

Your Endless Friend,
Sarah

I learned about native Washington State cacti shortly after becoming trained as a Master Gardener. At the time, the Bellevue Demonstration Garden (http://www.mgfkc.org/resources/demonstration-gardens/bellevue-demonstration-garden) was planning a cactus garden to educate us about Washington natives. During the planning phase, I had the privilege to visit retired WSU Extension Agent George Pinyuh’s Kent garden, which featured an impressive collection of native cacti. Who knew?

George Pinyuh will be giving a free workshop called Cactus in the Northwest at the Bellevue Demonstration Garden Saturday, August 20, 2011. 

Meanwhile, what can we find in Washington? Opuntia fragilis (Brittle Prickly Pear) is the only cactus species native to western Washington. It can be found in scattered populations east of Sequim (near Port Townsend), the San Juan Islands, one spot on Whidbey. East of the mountains you can find O. fragilis, O. Columbiana, O. polyacantha, Pediocactus nigrispinus (hedgehog cactus), and Escobaria vivipara. Unfortunately, many of these plants are disappearing and conservation is encouraged. For more details and photos, read “A Primer on Washington Native Cacti” http://www.angelfire.com/bc/eucalyptus/desertnorthwest/articles/native_cacti.html.

How can you grow cacti in W. Washington? "A Primer on Washington Native Cacti” states: In western Washington, all will require the exceptionally well drained soil found in a rock garden or cactus garden. You can mound up a soil mix composed mostly of grit, pumice or sand and you should have excellent results. They can also be planted between cracks in rocks. Any situation where moisture will drain away quickly, or where the roots are protected from rainfall will work for them. Opuntia fragilis prefers rather sandy soil, but the others will thrive on coarse, gravelly soil without too much fine material.

I'm afraid I don't know where you can locate these natives.  If you can attend George Pinyuh's workshop, he might be able to advise. And, don’t forget to visit the Bellevue Demonstration Garden to view their collection of cacti.  Master Gardeners work in the garden every Wednesday and Saturdays from 9am - 1 pm. For gardeners who are interested in cacti and succulents, consider joining or attending a meeting of the Cascade Cactus and Succulent Society of Washington State. Contact information can be found at www.cascadecss.org.  Happy cacti gardening!

Hello,

I've set up several drip irrigation systems, as well as teaching a drip irrigation at City people's Garden Store, where I work. There are way too many choices and I've narrowed it down to the essentials. I'd be happy to show you what I consider the best method. I work at City peeps (in Madison valley) Mon, Fri, and Sat. Ask for Jose, I'd be happy to help you!

Installing a drip irrigation system for your vegetable garden and mini home orchard is an excellent idea. I recommend reading the following information about installing and designing drip irrigation systems from WSU and Colorado State University. You will get tested and unbiased information from these sources--in other words, they aren't selling a system, but giving great information!

From WSU: Drip Irrigation for the Yard and Garden,
http://irrigation.wsu.edu/Content/Fact-Sheets/DripIrrForYardGarden.pdf

From Colorado State University Extension, Drip Irrigation for Home Gardens http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/04702.html

From WSU Extension Small Farms Team, http://smallfarms.wsu.edu/crops/irrigation/

I hope this info is helpful.
-Andrea

I have a system I've installed in my backyard that is spring-fed and gravity based.

I am no expert, but I can tell you this about drip irrigation: gravity is your friend.

If you can find a way to put your water source up high, then all you need is a valve - no pump. I'm fortunate that I have a spring on my property, but you could use rain barrels or a similar scheme. As long as you can elevate the water source, it will naturally drip down through your system when you open the valve.

Sorry if this answer seems like pointing out the obvious, but sometimes the obvious is important. Good luck, and happy irrigating!

If it's NOT a peony, I'm registering a vote for bleeding hearts. And agreed, leave it be and you will have lovely flowers.

The other nice thing about both of these plants is that since they sprout from the ground every spring, you can cut off any dead material in summertime without guilt...you're not hurting a thing.

I've heard from some mycophile friends of mine that Morels like burned-over areas. But that's all I've got. I don't pick wild stuff, I don't know enough to identify things. Except Amanitas. I know two places where Amanita's grow, but hell if I'll tell anyone... those things can KILL you!

I don't know about youtube, but there are numerous gardening blogs available with a host of information. Check out: www.debraprinzing.com, www.valeaston.com, www.karensgardenadventures.com for a few of the Seattle based writers.

Nita-Jo