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  • Why do dog owners disregard leash laws?
    Finn3goof_small
    Reputation: 1811

    We just love our dogs more than we we love you. We don't even like you.

    Seriously, though, I am guilty of this myself but do pick up dog shit and do keep an eye on my dog. He's a complete goofball but intimidating to non-dog folks because he's big. But he's well trained and responds freakishly well to voice commands and actually does much better off leash than on.

    Having said that I really can't stand punk ass irresponsible dog owners myself. (I realize I am conveniently and illogically excusing my own peccadilloes but tough shit- if you want ethical and/or rhetorical purity I ain't your guy- hypocritical? Probably.)

    Drop a dime on the offenders and call Animal Control. Seattle's AC is pretty responsive to this sort of thing though they do seem to defer to the communities historic use of some parks and open spaces (but only to a point). That goes for lots of city departments.

  • Should I concerned about my dog's unproductive retching?
    2008_0522stuff0016_small
    Reputation: 2052

    Is your dog brachycephalic (short snouted) like a pug or bulldog? These types of dogs and their hybrids can get reverse sneezing events that sound and rather look like retching, but usually aren't serious. Google reverse sneezing to get video and audio.

    Also, does your dog like toys? Are any missing? Small toys or pieces of toys have been known to persist in dogs' stomachs for months after ingestion, causing persistent yet intermittent problems while they are in the stomach.

    To be certain, though, you need to get to the vet. It could be symptomatic of certain kinds of cancer, pica, or any number of things, all with varying amounts of associated costs to treat.

  • Is my cat trying to spray?
    Kendo_20dog_small
    Reputation: 286

    My cats do this as well. I've read that certain animals will act friendly by turning their butts towards you, either because sniffing that area is a greeting or because they're showing they trust you by turning away.

    I used to have a cat who sprayed even though he'd been neutered, and he never attempted to spray humans. He marked his humans by rubbing his face on our legs and marked his territory by spraying trees. It might look similar, but I don't think he'd actually spray you.

  • Is my cat trying to spray?
    Photo_on_2012-01-03_at_17
    Reputation: 628

    My "fixed" female cat also does this. I like to think it is happy tail! I like that term. Perhaps they have some invisible-to-human-eyes scent-making apparatus installed in their butts. I don't know. I didn't think that girl cats normally sprayed, so any residual spray behavior seems unlikely if girl cats don't spray. Glad you asked this question though, because I had never seen a cat do this before my current cat.

  • Is my cat trying to spray?
    Spaceship_small
    Reputation: 1812

    I've seen this behavior in my "fixed" female cats over the years, and also felt it was related to "spraying".

    I didn't know how to interpret it until now.
    Thank you!

  • Is my cat trying to spray?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    I think you have done an excellent description of the behavior and have a very accurate read on its origin and how it is expressed by your tom (who was neutered very young). I believed this is indeed a spraying related behavior (motor) pattern that is being used in expressing excitement by your cat.

    Don't focus on the origin of the behavior, just realize what emotion triggers it and what it signifies in your feline family member.

  • Is my cat trying to spray?
    Bierce1_small
    Reputation: 640

    "When he's very happy (for example, when we come in the door after being gone, or when we go to the fridge to feed him), he arches his back, puts his tail straight up, and does a fast, quivering, vibrating, tail-shake that lasts-about 4-5 seconds ("shaky tail"). I've seen it mentioned as a sign of ultimate happiness in cat books a few times."

    Huh! My (neutered, 2+ y/o) cat's been wrapping himself around my leg and doing this "quivering" when I try to sleep. I just assumed that he was attempting to hump my leg.

    I'd love to hear from someone more knowledgeable about this, so I can know whether to get creeped out and keep him from doing this... or take it as a sign of affection.

  • What is my cat doing?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    There are variations in how cats develop in social and other ways that are impacted by how long they stay with their mothers. Generally it is best to leave kittens with the mother until the age of 12 weeks. Many folks will rehome them earlier. Cats that knead excessively and show other unusual variations in social play may have been removed from their mothers and litter mates early.

    The one that is being grabbed is still showing the kittenish reaction to being grabbed by the scruff (like by their mother) and acquiescing as if he is to be carried and moved. The brother has found out how this reaction allows him to command the situation. Without a doubt those needle sharp teeth of young cats are not too comfortable on the skin of the one being grabbed and hence the displeasure.

    The underdevelopment (hypoplasia) of the cerebellum puts this cat at a bit of a disadvantage. The cerebellum is the structure of the brain (back of brain near exit of brain stem and spinal cord) where the oft used motor patterns are stored and called upon. This center of coordination is what allows one to unconsciously draw on familiar patterns of muscle use (running, jumping, walking, etc.) Think of it as the place that allows you coordinate multiple patterns allowing one to "chew gum and walk at the same time." The brain simply draws on a learned, tried and true pattern and puts it in play while allowing attention to other things. This could be why that cat is still showing such a 'carry response' to the grabbing of the neck as it is a basic reflex response that all kittens have and is still present and not been overwritten or integrated into more mature skills.

    What you will note in your cat with the brain anomaly is jerky movement, apparent hesitation in going to do a normal motor event (jump down from the couch, running, and even in assuming postures when washing himself). That is because his center of learned and successful motor patterns is defective (underdeveloped) and not able to do a complete job, so he is always in the mode of not being able to accurately use his muscles in the manner dictated by common situations. In cats that are born "acerebellar" meaning born without a cerebellum entirely these events are approached as new challenges EVERY time and their movements are very immature and inexperienced always (typically they will face plant in jumping down every time as they never record the appropriate muscle skills for the task). Your cat may show improvement over time or skill at some movement patterns only or may just be the clumsy one his whole life.

    His brother will probably always lord over him and take advantage as he has figured out his advantage. You can work to distract him or break up these neck grabbing instances as a way of helping your challenged cat to learn to stick up for himself. Immature litter mates will tumble and fight as play. You will have to discern over time and maturity that this is what is happening or whether it gets to a point where you will need to intervene. You will have to play 'parent' to these two for a long time. I bet it works out alright, just love them both and see if you can help them learn to treat each other right.

  • What is my cat doing?
    Rex_racer_small
    Reputation: 690

    He's 'cuffing' the other. It's either a mothering thing ("hey, don't do that, bro - its bad for you") or an alpha dog type thing, where the cuffer is reasserting authority. It sometimes is a precursor to full on 'I hate you' fights --so keep an eye on them

  • Why is my dog so obnoxious on the ferry, and can I do anything about it?
    Spaceship_small
    Reputation: 1812

    Probably reacting to the vibration through the deck and the low frequency rumble of the engines. Doubt there's much you can do, except feed him a doggie-downer tranquizer well before you expect to cross the ferry. MAYBE that will help. Be careful though.

  • Why is my dog so obnoxious on the ferry, and can I do anything about it?
    Avatar_default
    Reputation: 9

    2nd the below answer. My only addition would be to stay with the dog and attempt to calm him (petting, talking, treats, whatever usually works). I've never had a similar problem, but as with most things that trip dogs out, I think owners can socialize to comfort via the above.

  • Why is my dog so obnoxious on the ferry, and can I do anything about it?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    The engines and the huge mass of the ferry produce sound at the very low (and probably ultra low) frequency range which many animals are much more tuned to perceiving than humans. When we ride the ferry people are often aware of the background hum and may feel some vibration in our chests and that is essentially from this low frequency vibrations. I suspect in a dog that almost feels like the vibration of a growl in their bodies and is probably not a comforting input. We know dogs and other animals respond to some sensory input before earthquakes and there is some supposition that it is ultra low frequency sound that may be part of that early warning just before ground movement occurs.

    The experience on your own boat is probably not as body shaking or as low a frequency sensory input plus he has had much more experience there through his whole life. I suspect if you raised a pup regularly riding a ferry with good training and positive reinforcement that it may not be a big deal. However, with your older dog and his mature sensory system it may not be an easy reaction to overcome at this point in his life. His pattern of behavior and reactions to the experience is so well established.

  • How long does it take for dogs to adjust to new places?
    Dsc_0148_small
    Reputation: 840

    i have nothing helpful to tell you - my dog loves wherever i take him instantly - but i thought this would be a great time to share this comic about the neuroses of dogs who are being moved.  the whole thing is waiting for you here

    below: the pain of watching one pack.

     

  • Keeping the dog after a break up
    Subcultureoftwo_small
    Reputation: 1892

    I believe this issue was addressed in Legally Blonde.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-oI_neM8qE

    (P.S. Good luck!) :)

  • Keeping the dog after a break up
    Icon_small
    Reputation: 1627

    I highly doubt the police are going to get involved in this; they have better things to do. Worst case scenario, your ex takes you to court, but it doesn't exactly sound like he's in a great position to hire an attorney.

    If I were you, though, I would be worried that he might try to steal the dog back and would take extra precautions to make sure that didn't happen. Have you changed the locks to your place since he moved out?

    If he were more reasonable and responsible about this, maybe you could work out supervised visits with the dog, but it sounds like that ship has sailed.

  • Keeping the dog after a break up
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    Get a statement from the vet saying that you are the one that has been responsible for bringing the dog in and making payment for services. To reinforce that take her in for a well-doggie checkup, if it has been at least a year since last visit, keep that bill also.

    Be sure others know you are the major caregiver for this dog, neighbors, family members, local community folks. Take her places with you, be seen walking her in the neighborhood, establish your role and involvement.

    Call or better yet go in to the humane society office (take her with you so they can see she is well and in good hands) and describe your situation and see what their take on the matter is. Don't worry, they have enough animals needing homes, they don't want her back, if she is in a loving caring home.

    Adam Karp is a wonderful and good person to talk with and would be the best person for legal consultation with on this situation.

  • Keeping the dog after a break up
    Squirrel_small
    Reputation: 23

    So, I have been known to watch a little People's Court/Judge Judy in my time (yeah, yeah, I know). Anyway, they always say that pets are property and have to be treated as such legally.

    My gut feeling is that if you can prove that you've paid for the dog's maintenance and upkeep, then you can prove you’re the fair owner of the “property” (it kills me to write that so I have to use quotation marks).

    Not sure that he’d be up for this, but you could offer to buy out your boyfriend’s share of the "property" (i.e. write him a check that specifically notes that it is for his share of the dog, sign a contract that gives away his rights or whatnot). That could upset him more than just stopping all communication with him though, so tread lightly.

    Regardless, I’m sorry you’re going through this and wish you the best.

  • How long does it take for dogs to adjust to new places?
    N1004868286_8533_small
    Reputation: 33

    It can take a little while to get used to new places, but part of it is also training and what the family does to help the dog learn to relax there.

    My suggestion is that instead of jumping to legal measures, you leave a note on the door to let the people know that their dog is barking. Some people don't even know until their neighbors complain, because the dog doesn't bark until they're gone.

    Recommend that they see a trainer for help and be patient with the owners of this dog, if you can. Training can take time.

    Only good things,
    Grisha

    _________________________________
    Grisha Stewart, M.A., CPDT, CTP
    Owner of Ahimsa Dog Training http://DoggieZen.com
    Author of "BAT for Reactivity"
    902 NW 49th Street
    Seattle, WA 98107
    Store Phone and Fax: (206) 706-0375
    Phone when store is closed: (206) 364-4072

    Award-winning training by professionals who care about people and dogs!

  • Keeping the dog after a break up
    N1004868286_8533_small
    Reputation: 33

    I'm not a lawyer, and I don't know who the dog is better off with, but personally, I'd fight for custody. Does your dog have a microchip? If so, whose name is on that? Whose name is on the records at your dog's vet? All of that should help.

    Adam Carp is an animal lawyer and would be able to give you better advice. http://www.animal-lawyer.com/

    I'd think it would be worth the peace of mind to pay him to give you advice on what to do, possibly even get a letter from him to the ex-boyfriend that all communication goes through your attorney.

    Only good things,
    Grisha

    _________________________________
    Grisha Stewart, M.A., CPDT, CTP
    Owner of Ahimsa Dog Training http://DoggieZen.com
    Author of "BAT for Reactivity"
    902 NW 49th Street
    Seattle, WA 98107
    Store Phone and Fax: (206) 706-0375
    Phone when store is closed: (206) 364-4072

    Award-winning training by professionals who care about people and dogs!

  • How long does it take for dogs to adjust to new places?
    Img_5852_small
    Reputation: 775

    Definitely worth talking to the owner. But also know that a few weeks isn't unreasonable for canines to settle down/adjust. Moves are super stressful, and then the "abandonment" of the owner leaving for work each day...it's rough.

    And for those who haven't seen it, may I present one of my favorite things of all time: Hyperbole and a Half's accounting of moving with two dogs.

    http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/11/dogs-dont-understand-basic-concepts.html

    eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

  • How long does it take for dogs to adjust to new places?
    Min-wage_small
    Reputation: 1421

    I think Russ is right-on - this is a people problem, not a dog problem. I'm not a dog expert but we always had dogs growing up, and nonstop barking is usually a sign of a dog that is left alone too much. Dogs are very social animals, and I think it's preferred to have two dogs if you are going to leave them alone a lot so they can keep each other company.

    In addition I think dobermans are more sensitive to strangers and more territorial than a lot of dogs, and may be more upset by a change of surroundings. We had mostly labs but also one dobie when I was growing up, and the dobie was definitely more skittish and barked more around strangers. I know it's not wise to extrapolate from one individual to a whole species, but breed temperament may also be an issue.

    I think waiting a week to see if there is any change is a good idea. If not, I hope you or one of your neighbors will talk to the new dog-owner neighbor before calling animal control - if the dog mostly barks when he's not home, he might not even know it's a problem.

  • How long does it take for dogs to adjust to new places?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    I am the so-called 'bird person' here and not the 'dog person', however the basic principles and process of animal training are certainly consistent across different classes of animals.

    The plain truth is that, if your new across the street dog owner is not involved in training his dog to change this behavior then I would expect that this is what you will continue to experience. I suggest you have a friendly conversation with him expressing your concern for the dog's welfare and state of mind (and also your comfort in your home). You might want to also talk with all the other neighbors that might be disturbed by this dog's constant barking. You may all have to express your discomfort (and concern for the dog) to the police and/or animal control authorities to get action. If the owner is uncooperative in working at changing the behavior the aspects of visitation by authorities, warnings and imposition of fines can certainly be a motivator.

    As easy as it is to dislike the dog, remember it is the owner, their care of their pet and willingness to be a good owner and good neighbor that is really the problem here.

  • Is this a Wolf?
    Subcultureoftwo_small
    Reputation: 1892

    Nope, that's the trickster coyote. See how lean and skinny it is? A wolf is HUGE all over. See one in person (Woodland Park has some) and you'll definitely notice the difference. And Kitsch is right, we have VERY few wolves in Washington. Your odds of seeing on in Seattle are vanishingly minute.

    Your odds of seeing a coyote, urban-friendly as they are, are not bad at all.

    Check out more info here:
    http://washingtonwolf.info/

  • Is this a Wolf?
    Image00666_small
    Reputation: 3564

    That's a coyote, dude.

    There are very few resident wolves in Washington State- we're talking double digits. A small new pack was discovered earlier this year, and that made big news in the conservation world. If you think it was too big to be a coyote, you should definitely send that pic to the Department of Fish and Wildlife for verification.

  • Is this a Wolf?
    Carly_pic_small
    Reputation: 7

    I'm not an expert in this, but this looks like a coyote with a serious case of mange to me.

  • What kind of bird(s) should I consider?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    I want to answer your question with a discussion about various bird species, but first have to say that, in general, birds have the ability to live much longer (given proper care) than typical household pets. Even a budgerigar obtained now (AKA a budgie or parakeet) could be alive and well, living in your home when you son packs off for college. I could give my African Grey to J's grandchild who is just a few years older than the bird and she could have that bird when she reaches her 50th birthday (and beyond). Depending on your outlook on being responsible for animals you adopt (health, well-being, happiness, and longevity) this decision based on your very young son's current fascination may be a bit premature, but I trust you will consider all the facts (as you have had some bird experience and are willing to ask the right questions).

    So, if not a real bird right away, then what?

    There are some really neat little stuffed animal birds that are quite nicely realistic (but plush) that have a little device in them with the recorded bird song and when you squeeze them just right they play for a couple of cycles of the song. Here are some examples.  I remember seeing them for a time in REI but certainly they are available through many online sources.

    Having a window based or close bird feeder can bring local birds right up to your kitchen or dining room window and can be very entertaining. If you plant your garden with the right bushes and plants you can attract a huge variety of local native birds to where you can watch them very close by. Hummingbird feeders are also very successful for getting such amazing birds in close to see from inside your house. You have to learn to be very still when wild birds are nearby so you can observe them without scaring them away. Having a feeder through the winter months is a commitment not to take lightly, as birds will come to depend on that source of food as part of the resources of their range. Keeping it clean and providing high quality food is important.

    Obviously there is a huge gamut of DVDs (watching a video screen for any length of time is probably not recommended in a very young child) for seeing high quality movies of real birds and hearing their song. For adults, Winged Migration will absolutely blow your mind as you watch birds up close in formation flight (some at high altitude) - you gotta see it to believe it, and then you will wonder how they did it (video explanation is included).

    Then there are zoo exhibits to go to where you can go into a flighted bird aviary and have birds right around you coming to eat on seed sticks given to visitors. The Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium has such an exhibit called Budgie Buddies that is in its last couple weeks of activity before closing for the season (call as it is weather permitting). Go right away if you are interested.

    There are also breeder and exhibitor shows that you can go to (see below, one coming up this weekend).

    So, now to real birds in your own home.

    If you are convinced that having some real live birds of your own is what you want, then you have the choice between the finches, canaries or small psittacines, that is the smaller parrot species like budgerigars, parrotlets (pronounced PARRO-lets), cockatiels, etc. Up front I will have to admit that I am not very well versed in finch and canary knowledge and urge that for whatever species of birds you may consider, to look for folks that already own or breed them and go to that source for the best information.

    Here is a very timely resource. Cascade Canary Breeders Association Their fall bird (finch and canary) show is this coming weekend and family admission price is $5. I believe they also have a large show in the spring of each year.  

    Social finches like zebra finches have a huge following (there are two currently up for adoption on the QL classidfieds) and you could learn more about them at the resource above.

    Going to a show like that referenced here can be a good way to see up close various species and also get great information about local resources and talk to experienced owners. It is easy to dismiss the smaller birds as not having significant intelligence, distinct personalities, and desire to communicate with the humans they live with. I may have thought that of canaries, but after going to a bird club meeting on the peninsula last year, that all changed. A member brought one of his small hand raised white (flighted) canaries. As the meeting went on the bird started with the person immediately to the person's right and visited them on their hand, shoulder, chattering in their ear and being very interactive and socially curious. That continued for everyone seated around the large ring of tables, as the bird flew to each one in order, including me, spending a few minutes with each person, eventually returning to their owner.

    You need to go and look at real birds to know more about the amount of space you will need to dedicate to keeping them, the mess involved, and the amount of noise they can make. Obviously for smaller birds it might seem that their needs would be less but you can't make that assumption. Canaries and finches are perching birds and need much more horizontal space to be properly active and happy. They jump and fly from perch to perch and need cages that are longer horizontally than high so they have appropriate movement space. Psittacine birds have feet and a beak designed for grasping and can climb around their enclosures as well as use their wings. Their cages can be more square and with different play, perching areas at various heights. Larger enclosures are always preferable for activity and need to be outfitted with lots of perching options as well as hanging and side mounted toys for play and activity. For mixed sex groups of budgies you have no real worry about breeding as long as you don't provide anything that can be used as a nestbox.

    Canaries and finches sing and make other noises that vary according to their species and sex. Budgies have a pleasant sound/whistles and actually are quite capable of learning to talk (I had a grandfather with a budgie that he had taught to say its name and the home phone number - for recovery, if he accidentally got outside). 

    Beyond those options you have cockatiels, parrotlets, and the Pyrrhura conures. Cockatiels are larger birds and make wonderfully and quite long lived pets. It is not unusual to meet folks with cockatiels that are in their twenties. They certainly require significant time and attention (as all birds do, they aren't potted plants). Parrotlets are often described as full size parrots in small bodies and I believe it after hearing the stories of people that own them. These species are a significant leap in investment of time and energy to keep. Most folks don't really understand how much attention and time companion birds require. In general, I would recommend against parrotlets and lovebirds (which I have not discussed here) as being too challenging and not well suited to being handled by a small child. If your child is somewhat older when you make the bird decision you may want to consider a Green-cheeked Conure as a family bird. They are one of the quieter conure species (genus Pyrrhura versus genus Aratinga), but yet another leap up in longevity (with 30+ years possible).

    The interaction between your child and the birds must be strictly chaperoned. Small birds can be quite fragile in a confined space and a child erroneously trying to discipline a bird by striking the cage or moving too quickly even once could send a bird in fright to a collision and severely bad injury.

    With budgies, having a couple to serve as cage buddies or even a small colony of three or more in one enclosure is quite possible and being the social beings they are will hang out, communicate and allo-preen each other. You need to have plenty of feeding stations and place multiple groups of veggies and other treats so no one bird can garner the supply from others. Keeping an eye on the group dynamics is a good idea and spend time each day watching each bird to assess its health state is a good practice. With a group it is easy to miss that one or another is less active or may have an injury that needs attention.

    Any bird needs out of cage time to be social with the humans and enjoy the freedom of flight and movement. Clipping wings on small birds can be problematic. Lovebirds (for example) are short tailed birds and fly very well even with primary flight feathers clipped. Budgies are actually long tailed parrots and have a different flight dynamic. They can be very unstable with clipped wings and falls to the floor can be quite traumatic. Clipped wings are meant to be done so that a bird can fly with control down (but not gain altitude). With such small birds getting that balance can mean a very slight difference in the clip. Clipping bird wings (that is, trimming flight feathers that have no feeling or enervation and are molted periodically and replaced) is one of the many hotly debated issues in keeping birds as pets. All of my parrots are fully flighted and fly in my home. Having flight capable budgies could work very well in a regularly used space (the birds get to know the flying space, available landing spots) and will actually hang out on the top of their cage and return to eat and rest after exercise. Having out of cage time coincide with time to manage the cage cleaning chores and replenishing food and treats can be a good daily occurrence. Having regular interaction time and finger time (bird perched on hand), gentle touching (scritches on the head and neck) will keep your birds interacting with you and seeking your attention.

    All birds deserve meticulously clean living environments which generally means daily cleaning chores (both in and around cage areas), replenishment of clean water, provision of fresh and pelleted food, not just seed (seed is nutritionally deficient as a single food and will promote poor health and shortened lifespan), fresh or well filtered air and good full spectrum lighting.

    All birds deserve appropriate veterinarian care and budgies in particular require vaccination for Polyomavirus. We are particularly fortunate in this area to have a number of highly qualified certified avian vets in the western Washington and Puget Sound region. If you need more information or references, please contact me directly.

    All birds will require in house or exterior sitting services if you will be away from them for more than 24 hours. Know that some folks with larger psittacine birds will not want to sit your budgies as they can be carriers of some diseases that can affect other species. You can have a somewhat smaller and transportable "away cage" ready for those times (still needs to be outfitted with toys and such) that the birds can be happy in for a short stay.

    There is another whole issue I won't try to discuss here on the home environment and changes that you need to make to ensure bird health indoors (getting rid of teflon pans in the kitchen, not using aerosols, having a good air filter etc.). However, you should also be aware that birds create allergens (dander and feather dust) that can be a problem for people with asthma or other reactive breathing difficulties. These conditions by anyone in your home and especially in your son would make having birds a real problem and probably not a good choice.

    Although I hate the titles of these series, the books written for "dummies" and "complete idiots" on the various pet bird species can be good general guides. There are lots of good books on keeping birds. Pay attention to copyright dates so you are reading relatively recent literature and always consult more than one source as philosophy and opinions on best practices can vary. It is THE BEST practice to fully understand what you are getting into when considering having birds as pets BEFORE obtaining them.

    In summary, go see birds where you can, meet folks that have birds and talk to them (bird clubs and bird shows), read books on keeping birds (use the library as a start), and ALWAYS consider taking in birds that need new homes (there are plenty), contact me for references, if you need.

    If you understand the commitment ahead of time and have the facts you will be ready to meet the challenges and enjoy a long satisfying relationship with wonderfully interesting feathered beings in your life.

  • What kind of bird(s) should I consider?
    Sleestak_small
    Reputation: 555

    I've only had experience with canaries and lovebirds. Male canaries will sing if they're alone, but not if they have female canaries with them. I think they live around 10-15 years or so (mine lived 10). Lovebirds don't really sing at all, they just screech.

    That's my 2 cents.

  • Is it bad to let my cat eat human food?
    Icon_small
    Reputation: 1627

    My cat goes gaga over the water from a can of tuna, so much so that I can't open any can with a can opener (her food comes in a pop-top) without attracting undue attention. She also will occasionally eat lettuce (never the cheapo green/red leaf, only the high-quality mesclun mix).

    There are some fruits/vegetables that are no bueno for cats. Off the top of my head: onions, grapes. So consult this list before you give your cat some treats.

  • Is it bad to let my cat eat human food?
    Cats_small
    Reputation: 891

    I heard cats tend to like stone fruits.

    Our boy cat LOVES yogurt. At twenty paces he can tell you are holding a yogurt container and will come running.

    He does not like plain yogurt, only the flavored kind. Which we think is funny.

    He's also eaten pot roast and licked curry off of a plate. He always likes to sniff our food, but yogurt & pot roast are the only things he has taken a bite of.

    We consider him food adventurist. Especially compared to our Girl Cat who wont even eat wet food, barely eats any different kind of dry food. We put out all sorts of treats and different foods for the Boy Cat and she always tries to bury them. She also tries to bury the dust pan, coffee spills, sponges, ash.

  • Is it bad to let my cat eat human food?
    Qlandav2ex_small
    Reputation: 4209

    As a cat reaches geriatric years you may notice changes in its feeding habits, general mood, and overall patterns of rest, sleep and tolerance of being handled. They undergo changes in their digestive tract efficiency, energy levels, strength, stamina and joint health (with the possibility of pain in movement and being touched) very similar to our own life changes and body health late in life.

    Having some variety in food always has an attraction especially for an animal that has well developed sense of smell like any evolved predatory species. Sharing some food of your own can be an added way to enhance you and your feline's bond. Having said that, what you feed your cat is important and as a general rule human food should be given as small treats and not be a major part of their diet. Our food is often higher in salt and carbohydrates (including some sugars) that may create problems for a cat's digestive system if they are allowed more than a small taste as a treat.

    Most cats, if they have not been given milk products throughout their life, lose the ability to digest lactose, so giving milk products (including cheese) can give them some problems and you may note diarrhea or loose stools afterwards. Yogurt, effectively, has had the lactose digested by the bacterial culture in it but often has other things added to it and so giving a small taste and observing their reaction would be prudent. The milk proteins should be digestible without problem.

    Tuna is a very high protein rich food and proteins require more action by the kidneys to remove the nitrogenous wastes (proteins are made of amino acids that include an -NH group that is eventually eliminated as ammonia in the urine) and requires larger quantities of water to process. So you may notice increased urine output and increased thirst in the process if you were to feed large meals of such a food. By the way, kidney problems and efficiency in filtering out waste products is often one tipping point for cats in their geriatric years.

    Cat food for older cats is formulated for these types of changes in the systems of geriatric felines and reflect the makeup that the most recent research reflects as effective and appropriate.

    With all of the above comments the most appropriate person to discuss diet with would be your veterinarian. If you cat has not been ill or has not been to the vet recently it might be prudent to go in for a well-cat check up and pose your questions about how to plan for the next phase of your cat's life.

    Here are a couple of sites that discuss food for the older cat.

    The Special Needs Of Older Cats Caring For Your Elderly Feline  

    As Your Cat Ages - Normal changes seen with age in senior cats

    Caring for the elderly cat

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