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20110130-b95mxpi2chskkgn4fyccghh6a3

Cute, self-cleaning but destructive... get some tips and save your house.

Answers
  • Cat won't stop eating wires
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Are you aware of or have you tried these products?
    They are both forms of tubing that is extra tough and infused with bad tasting compounds and a citrus scent that cats don't like (so you are not having to continually re-apply a repellent).

    CritterCord
    http://www.crittercord.com/

    Chewsafe
    http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/Chewsafe.php

  • Why do cats arch their back and stare when I walk by with my dog, instead of like, running the hell away?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    They are following the basic strategy of looking as large and as menacing as possible and studying their enemy. Remember, if you run, then you look like prey to a predator. This is the same advice given to us humans when we are in the presence of a bear or cougar - if you run then the predator will probably chase. When you are running you have only one course of action and that is to continue.

    As Calvin observed about Hobbs, "cats are sharp on five out of six ends" and most dogs know that. As you said you are walking with your dog who is also moving at a leisurely speed (ambling), not exactly an attack mode, so the cat goes into its 'don't mess with me' posture as a first level of response.

  • What is my cat doing?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    There are variations in how cats develop in social and other ways that are impacted by how long they stay with their mothers. Generally it is best to leave kittens with the mother until the age of 12 weeks. Many folks will rehome them earlier. Cats that knead excessively and show other unusual variations in social play may have been removed from their mothers and litter mates early.

    The one that is being grabbed is still showing the kittenish reaction to being grabbed by the scruff (like by their mother) and acquiescing as if he is to be carried and moved. The brother has found out how this reaction allows him to command the situation. Without a doubt those needle sharp teeth of young cats are not too comfortable on the skin of the one being grabbed and hence the displeasure.

    The underdevelopment (hypoplasia) of the cerebellum puts this cat at a bit of a disadvantage. The cerebellum is the structure of the brain (back of brain near exit of brain stem and spinal cord) where the oft used motor patterns are stored and called upon. This center of coordination is what allows one to unconsciously draw on familiar patterns of muscle use (running, jumping, walking, etc.) Think of it as the place that allows you coordinate multiple patterns allowing one to "chew gum and walk at the same time." The brain simply draws on a learned, tried and true pattern and puts it in play while allowing attention to other things. This could be why that cat is still showing such a 'carry response' to the grabbing of the neck as it is a basic reflex response that all kittens have and is still present and not been overwritten or integrated into more mature skills.

    What you will note in your cat with the brain anomaly is jerky movement, apparent hesitation in going to do a normal motor event (jump down from the couch, running, and even in assuming postures when washing himself). That is because his center of learned and successful motor patterns is defective (underdeveloped) and not able to do a complete job, so he is always in the mode of not being able to accurately use his muscles in the manner dictated by common situations. In cats that are born "acerebellar" meaning born without a cerebellum entirely these events are approached as new challenges EVERY time and their movements are very immature and inexperienced always (typically they will face plant in jumping down every time as they never record the appropriate muscle skills for the task). Your cat may show improvement over time or skill at some movement patterns only or may just be the clumsy one his whole life.

    His brother will probably always lord over him and take advantage as he has figured out his advantage. You can work to distract him or break up these neck grabbing instances as a way of helping your challenged cat to learn to stick up for himself. Immature litter mates will tumble and fight as play. You will have to discern over time and maturity that this is what is happening or whether it gets to a point where you will need to intervene. You will have to play 'parent' to these two for a long time. I bet it works out alright, just love them both and see if you can help them learn to treat each other right.

  • Is it bad to let my cat eat human food?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    As a cat reaches geriatric years you may notice changes in its feeding habits, general mood, and overall patterns of rest, sleep and tolerance of being handled. They undergo changes in their digestive tract efficiency, energy levels, strength, stamina and joint health (with the possibility of pain in movement and being touched) very similar to our own life changes and body health late in life.

    Having some variety in food always has an attraction especially for an animal that has well developed sense of smell like any evolved predatory species. Sharing some food of your own can be an added way to enhance you and your feline's bond. Having said that, what you feed your cat is important and as a general rule human food should be given as small treats and not be a major part of their diet. Our food is often higher in salt and carbohydrates (including some sugars) that may create problems for a cat's digestive system if they are allowed more than a small taste as a treat.

    Most cats, if they have not been given milk products throughout their life, lose the ability to digest lactose, so giving milk products (including cheese) can give them some problems and you may note diarrhea or loose stools afterwards. Yogurt, effectively, has had the lactose digested by the bacterial culture in it but often has other things added to it and so giving a small taste and observing their reaction would be prudent. The milk proteins should be digestible without problem.

    Tuna is a very high protein rich food and proteins require more action by the kidneys to remove the nitrogenous wastes (proteins are made of amino acids that include an -NH group that is eventually eliminated as ammonia in the urine) and requires larger quantities of water to process. So you may notice increased urine output and increased thirst in the process if you were to feed large meals of such a food. By the way, kidney problems and efficiency in filtering out waste products is often one tipping point for cats in their geriatric years.

    Cat food for older cats is formulated for these types of changes in the systems of geriatric felines and reflect the makeup that the most recent research reflects as effective and appropriate.

    With all of the above comments the most appropriate person to discuss diet with would be your veterinarian. If you cat has not been ill or has not been to the vet recently it might be prudent to go in for a well-cat check up and pose your questions about how to plan for the next phase of your cat's life.

    Here are a couple of sites that discuss food for the older cat.

    The Special Needs Of Older Cats Caring For Your Elderly Feline  

    As Your Cat Ages - Normal changes seen with age in senior cats

    Caring for the elderly cat

  • Alleviating kitty sadness?
    Photo_on_2012-01-03_at_17

    One of our cats was recently abducted possibly by a coyote or some other thing, and I've had animals that we've had to put to sleep in the past. I would say that each person handles their grief in their own way, and as the old cliché goes, time heals.

    I often have had feelings of guilt about the timely and/or untimely demise of pet babies. I think it is a part of losing anyone that you love and care about. And it can be complicated when you have a pet put to sleep. You know in your brain that it is the most compassionate thing to do, but then a part of you thinks: what if ???!!!! what if kitty could have lived a little longer, etc.

    I would say, just know that what you are going through is normal and keep in mind that your kitty had a great life with you while she was alive. Remind your husband that he wasn't having his cat killed, but that he was ending her suffering...

    Also, I would suggest a possible art therapy project. Maybe work together on a collage of your favorite kitty photos, or make a photo album dedicated to your kitty...or even draw pictures of her. It may sound silly, but it can be a way to process difficult emotions, plus you can look back at it when you are missing your kitty.

    It will sting less with time. Death is never easy.

    I'm so sorry for your loss. Hang in there.

  • Will my kitten/cat adjust to staying in at night without getting depressed?
    Enso_circle_small

    I'm so sorry to hear about your loss, K.

    Your cat will get used to being in a night soon - they are creatures of habit. Also she will be asleep for most of the night, so don't worry about her being bored.

    Misty is right, she is probably missing her friend, as you are. Give her lots of love and attention.

  • Can you recommend a professional groomer for a rescue cat with issues?
    N1125488266_8758_small

    First of all, I commend you for adopting! Have you taken her to the vet? If she is the kind of cat that is paralyzed by fear at the vet's office, chances are she'll do fine with any groomer. They will trim nails at the vet and might brush if you ask, but chances are they will charge you like 20 dollars for the nail trim. Ridiculous, but true in mine and others' experiences.

    It may not be that your cat has issues but just simply hates to be brushed. It's something she's not used to and most kitties aren't terribly fond of having their bodies touched in ways they're not accustomed to. You might have to try to get her used to the brush slowly, like doing one stroke with the brush and then giving her some pets and/or a treat so she associates brushing with positive things. You could also try different types of brushes. The Zoom Groom, a cat-shaped rubber brush, is a popular choice for short-haired cats.

    Unfortunately I don't have a groomer or know of any, but if you can find a groomer with a good reputation in general, you could try calling and describing what's going on with your cat and ask them if they are okay with taking that on. I think any groomer worth his or her salt should be able to handle an animal that doesn't like to be groomed--I would guess that (with cats at least) the majority of their furry clients aren't too thrilled about the whole thing.

    Good luck!

  • Help! My geriatric kitty keeps peeing in FRONT of the litterbox, not inside it. Is there any way to get him to do it IN the litterbox?
    Avatar_default

    You probably don't want to hear this, but get him checked out by your vet. My geriatric kitty did the same thing, and it turned out she was diabetic. Once we got that under control with diet and insulin (thereby reducing the volume of pee to normal), she was back to peeing inside the box.

  • Can you recommend an inexpensive vet that will prescribe meds without a visit?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    I would highly doubt you will find any veterinarian that does not know you or your cat (as the patient) that will prescribe medications sight unseen to confirm your diagnosis or appropriateness of treatment.

    You might find an applicable product online such as through 1-800-PETMEDS.

    http://www.1800petmeds.com/Wormers-cat74.html?source=cat

    I am sure you can find other sources of veterinary medicines available online.
    You do so at your own risk and the risk of your cat's health and life also.
    I have to say that so you go forward realizing the possible consequences of your actions.

    I hope this helps.

  • Is it possible to relocate a cat about to barf?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Let me offer you some support on a couple of different levels.

    First off I appreciate your concern about moving the animal that is about to vomit as you don't want to accidently cause the animal to aspirate any vomitus. If you are able to scoop your hand under the back feet with one hand and support the animal's chest or forefeet with the other (keeping them in essentially the same position as it is crouching in to begin with) you can probably move them safely to the more preferred substrate. But the success of that is all in the timing with what is happening at the moment. Sometimes this kind of quick move just surprises and frightens the cat so it isn't a good option.

    We found that it was probably kinder (and usually faster) to just get something in front of the cat to catch the barf. Having a few sheets of newspaper handy in those locations to just grab and slide in front of them can work very well. Then cleanup can be just folding the paper up. Sometimes kitty will run or move when you try this so you have to be quick and easy about it, even timing it so that you get it there when they are just about to eject so they don't run.

    Next, of course, is trying to figure out what is causing the need to barf. Hair ingestion during washing (hairballs) is a big one and getting your cat used to being combed or brushed with an appropriate instrument (visit your local pet or cat emporium to find the right item) during those times when they are shedding a lot of underfur is the key. It has to be an enjoyable experience for them (and you), so take your time in developing that as a frequent routine. There are also remedies that help the fur to be passed through the gut without needing to be ejected by mouth, tasty paste that a cat will eat that catches the hair and helps it pass through. I defer to your vet for the best advice there.

    We discovered that our cat was horking down whole kibbles of dry food without breaking them up or chewing them at all. The advice we got from our vet was to put some large round stones (clean river rock larger than food size) in the food bowl. The cat had to pick up individual kibbles to eat and thus slowed down in eating and as a result the food was better masticated and less barfing occurred.

  • I need (okay want) a new sofa. However, I have two Persian cats who have a taste for destruction. What kind of material is best for a sofa cover?
    Avatar_default

    Try outdoor fabrics like Sunbrella - they are relatively indestructible. Also, leather and suede are very durable especially if you don't need your sofa to look pristine - it'll scratch but that'll add to the "patina". I've heard Ultrasuede and microfibre are also good, but I would recommend going to Joannes and buying a yard of it to test on your current sofa. Drape it over the arm or back and see if it attracts your cats- in fact you could do this with other fabric types you want to test out. Another alternative is to slipcover your sofa so at least when guests come over you can whip off the destroyed slipcover and have an untouched sofa underneath. This is a toughy though, as most fabrics will be suscesptible.

    I have three cats and a toddler - and two leather sofas, so that's my vote. I do try to keep my cats nails trimmed which I do myself with a big nail trimmer (the kind for people not cats). You just need to trim off the sharp tips and keep away from the pink part.

    Good luck!

  • Why does my cat lick herself after I touch her? Does she feel that I contaminate her with germs?!?
    Sacri_ordines_by_charism_small

    Pretty much. Though it's more likely about smell than germs per se. She's reasserting her scent over yours. Secretly she loves you though, and probably wants more of your scent, so you can look at it as 'she's lovingly prepping herself for the next onslaught of lovely human scent'. ;)

  • Nipple sucking kitten
    Icon_small

    My kitten loved to suckle a fuzzy blanket; the nubs of fuzz probably felt like nipples to her. She slowly stopped doing it, and, about a year ago, when I'd try to leave it out for her, she'd drag it and leave it at the entrance to her litter box. That seemed as good a sign as any that she'd outgrown it.

    The suckling impulse seems pretty normal. I think I'd just monitor her to make sure she's not biting her nipples or suckling them raw.

  • what is the biggest cat in the world
    Cat-duck-2_small

    The liger.

  • How to care for a cat bite?
    Img_3324_2_small

    Cat teeth are like pointy needles and they make deep puncture wounds. Puncture wounds usually don't bleed much, and when you wash it, the water can't circulate inside the wound. So what is there to flush foreign matter out of the wound? Nothing.

    Which is why the odds of infection from bites like this are very high. The only thing worse if you're the same species as the biter. At least most of the cat's mouth bacteria are adapted to a cat, not a human.

    If you google "bite wound" or "puncture wound" there are instructions for what to do; clean it and dress it. See a doctor if it doesn't get better. Everything you already did, more or less.

    Personally, and if it didn't bleed profusely or if the biter and the bitten are the same species, I'd presume it to be infected and see a doctor without waiting to see if it looks infected.

Questions
Recent Comments
  • Comment on soundslikepuget's answer…
    Avatar_default

    I would never brush it off as no big deal, but I feel an adult should know better than to pick up a cat they suspected was feral---this is the reason that was given for wanting to help the poor lost stray. As it is, the identity of the victim has been kept confidential. Perhaps she is embarrassed or.....? Afraid I'll be angry because of the terrible consequences for my cat who is, BTW, neutered and in top top health. She is far from psychotic, but also far from shy and retiring. People, around here we live with coyotes and 'coons. Treat ANY animal unknown to you as a stranger!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    Oh, and obviously, when we eventually decide to buy keyboards or mice that are not free or extremely cheap (<$5), they will be wireless :)

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    We've been talking about "cover the wiring" options since we saw your links. We've been told Chewsafe is a good product that works, but the pricing is kind of ridiculous: 6 feet for $10.

    We had also thought about trying to find some metal tubing, cut a slit down the back of it, and run wires through those. If done well, metal tubing may even look half nice. We hadn't thought of leather scraps and I'll keep that in mind.

    Here's an example of what we're working with:

    http://dl.dropbox.com/u/673212/Photo%20Jan%2021%2C%203%2039%2012%20PM%20%28HDR%29.jpg

    He has never touched a wire behind the TV (yet) but that's the kind of bundling I'm doing right now, and then using a towel and bitter cherry stuff to coat the cables every couple weeks. The computers are done in the same way but with significantly less wires.

    Now here's the fucked up part in my opinion: literally 3 nights in a row he ate 3 of my USB mice -- shredded them, bit the cord in half in 5+ places, chewed on it in 10 places. This cable was bundled alongside my keyboard cable (and network cable, and monitor cable), but he seemed to have gone very directly after only the mouse (which had been cleaned and then the entire bundle re-coated with bitter cherry). I have no idea how my keyboard survived this.

    So I started just putting my mouse away at night and when we can't keep a general eye on him and we haven't lost a single cord all week.

    This cat makes no sense.

    Anyway, final note, we talked it over and decided we're such stupidly crazy cat people that we will move to a place that has a better layout and gives us the ability to close the door to the computer room before we get rid of the cat. Our lease is up in 5 months and we can deal with it. Plus, our other male cat is literally best friends with him, and we just can't do let him go.

    Worst of all, stupid animal is photogenic: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6721747875_9cc166d2a7_z.jpg

    Thanks for all your thought on this! It's obvious you understand an irrational love of cats, even the ones that make you hate them :)

  • Comment on Griffin's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    I've been shopping my story around work and have had several reports of pets (mostly dogs) eating wires and it doesn't sound like getting shocked is a very good fix.

    Overall the idea is dumb for a lot of reasons but I think it's ruled out. If the cat gets shocked, it will be its own fault and we did our best to prevent it.

    I did learn that USB cables and 12V 1A power adapters won't even cause his stupid little kitty face to feel a tingle, and those are his favorite meals.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    I just discovered your edit of your comment above (I am unsure how I missed it before).

    Now that you mention his attraction to plastic in general it brings to mind another alternative tact, to try to divert the activity from wires to some acceptable alternative. You may be able to find an equally attractive chew toy that he will be satisfied with. Plastic, in general, may not be terrible, if he is not ingesting any of it. There may be various qualities that attract him - smell, feel in mouth, appearance, etc. If you go with plastic chew toys try using something made from those types that are made for contact with human food (plastic cutlery, like IKEA kid sets) putting several pieces together with a sturdy ring so that it flops and moves and can be wrestled with might work.

    Alternatively a twisted and tied hunk of vegetable tanned leather (scraps available for not to much money from Tandy leather shops) might be attractive. I have a parrot that loves to chew and cut up plastic and is equally happy with cutting up leather also. The necessary warning here is that if leather becomes favored you may have to be diligent about putting your shoes out of reach when you aren't wearing them.

    If you find something that works, keep rotating different forms of it so that there is something to discover. If you find something isn't being played with, remove it and reintroduce it again in a week or so. A toy that a cat loses interest in may be welcomed back with enthusiasm after a hiatus. Favorite toys can be made even more attractive by making them harder to get at. Suspend on a rope so the cat has to sit up or stand to reach it, put it in a junk cardboard box with holes, etc. so he can see it, or just reach it, but with difficulty.

  • Comment on Tracy M's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    that would be the title if the cat were making the post! :)

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Been cogitating on your situation and I have had a few other thoughts. I know you have tried many things and if this info below is already been tried or thought of, please excuse me stating what may be obvious.

    Much of the problem with wires is that they are often longer than really needed and unruly. Controlling the 'spaghetti mess' is a huge task. Some technology like keyboard connections and mice can be wireless now and that might help on the desk surface itself.

    One of the problems is your feline has a good search image for what he is looking for and so "out of sight" is really a good strategy. For the longer runs and predictably constant routes I was thinking you could build some hard white PVC pipe routes. The white stuff used for plumbing is easy find and to work with (and fairly cheap). A standard size has room enough for lots of wires. You could actually build a length that goes from the back of your computer area across the desk down a leg of the furniture and across the floor to the outlet or other connection point. Securing it periodically where you can with large cable ties (like to the table leg) will make it secure in place or use some velcro fasteners or double stick tape, etc. Elbows and other connectors give you flexibility to build to suit and really no gluing is needed because they really press fit well (you could glue them if you wanted to, once the route is set). Run a piece of rope through the structure as you build it and then you can gently pull your wires through in a bundle or feed them through gradually as you put it together. You could use just cut ends or really get fancy and use end caps with a hole drilled through to just fit the wires (ultimately the end fitting as it needs to fit through first). Then you could use the scented clear stuff we talked about before, from the ends of that conduit to the plug in points. That keeps the more vulnerable points shorter.

    The passive strategy is basically: Camouflage/Remove from Availability/Make it Unpalatable

    (followed by the active methods of Supervision/Inaccessibility to the Rooms when that is not possible

    Power plug in points (adapters and such) to power strips could be encased in a clear (or not) plastic shoe storage box (vented with holes for heat if necessary) so you can keep an eye on it and see power strip lights, etc. That way you only have one normal household line going out to the wall outlet.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    In some places we use the PVC-like flexible tubing that you can find at Fry's for wire management, but this also looks promising. He tends to stick to smaller cords where the tubing we have isn't very practical for, so I'll definitely give this a try. Thanks!

    edit: though I should mention the only time we tried to put a collar on him we woke up to shredded black plastic all over the house. It was a hard plastic buckle at one point. Stupid cat just loves to chew plastic.

  • Comment on Kristin Bell's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    It helps to know that females do it to, since I think you're right and that they don't spray. Hooray for happy tail!

  • Comment on O my captain's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    We have a pretty expressive cat, so when we first got him, I was constantly reading up on cat behavior and communication. The shaky tail isn't mentioned terribly often (and was never mentioned in tandem with spraying), but the backing-up really had me wonder.

    Anyway, it's great to hear from other cat owners. Thanks!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Subcultureoftwo_small

    Hey, as long as it's spray-free, I'm a happy cat-mom! I was just curious if there was a connection, since I don't have prior experience with spraying (yay).

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Kendo_20dog_small

    Thanks, Russ! You're right, they may have been separated from mom too early; they're rescues, so I don't know the full story.

    After reading your answer I remembered that the dominant cat is used to receiving a lot of attention from my boyfriend, who's away for the week. That's probably why he started doing this.

  • Comment on Basil's answer…
    Bierce1_small

    "They can't sense if a person is going to turn out to be a jerk to you. It's not like the cat can somehow see into the future, or can somehow read magic auras off your boyfriends super-magic-spirit-plane that says he is gonna be mean to you."

    Funny enough...

  • Comment on keshmeshi's answer…
    Gogogophers_small

    I go gaga over the water from a can of tuna.

  • Comment on internet_jen's answer…
    Cats_small

    Yeah they are named Boy Kitty and Girl Kitty, and yeah, some of our friends also think it's insulting. But they're the ones with a cat named Zipper, not worse but not better.

  • Comment on internet_jen's answer…
    Dinolock_small

    Did you name your cats "boy cat" and "girl cat" or are you just talking about them generically?

    Everyone is always so insulted I named my sibling cats boy kitty and girl kitty... like they care!

  • Comment on KittenKoder's answer…
    Icon-med_small

    Yeah, I worded that a little wrong, should add "if at all possible" to the end of it, sorry about that.

  • Comment on Tracy M's answer…
    Avatar_default

    Thanks for the advice. Have gotten several good ideas

  • Comment on Griffin's answer…
    Img_5852_small

    Yes, get them KMR Kitten Milk Replacer right away.

  • Comment on Griffin's answer…
    2008_0522stuff0016_small

    Oh, you have tiny babies, don't you? Get them kitten milk replacer (even Walmart carries it) and feed that instead of cow's milk. Use it to thin their wet food enough so that they can lap it up.

    They're probably sleeping in the litter box because it's secure and enclosed. Give them blankets or towels to sleep in and they'll probably use them.

    Since your babies are tiny, line the area where you're keeping them with old sheets or towels and change frequently. Babies that young don't have the bowel control to use a litter box. Also, use a wet washcloth to wipe their butts after each meal to stimulate pooping--mom would do this with her tongue, and not doing this can kill kittens.

    Take your kitties to a vet or contact your local animal rescue group for more detailed advice, too. We can't really help you without seeing exactly what you've got.

  • Comment on KittenKoder's answer…
    Avatar_default

    would have like to leave them with the mother but she had other ideas and deserted them.

  • Comment on Griffin's answer…
    Avatar_default

    I had been bottle feeding them till I read not to give them milk as that causes diarrha and stomach problems. This site said to just give soft canned food till they are old enough to eat the dry. These kittens have very soft/liquid type stools so thought I would stop the milk and see what happens. Kind of hard to pick that waste up and put in the litter box. Why do they insist on sleeping in the litter box?

  • Comment on internet_jen's answer…
    Bierce1_small

    Exactly, the cat knew they weren't a threat, but since they were unfamiliar and could potentially become a threat at some point, it tries to make them feel uncomfortable/unwanted in the hopes that they'll leave ASAP.

  • Comment on internet_jen's answer…
    Enso_circle_small

    Shocking!

  • Comment on internet_jen's answer…
    Cats_small

    please excuse that flagrant use of an apostrophe

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    378117390_e186b7c92a_small

    Good thoughts. My issue is that I'm currently living in an apartment that is too expensive for me that I do not plan to keep if I move. I was going to sell most of my stuff, put the rest in storage. Hmmm....

  • Comment on Fnarf's answer…
    Gold-head_small

    Nope. I'm an Oscar statuette.

  • Comment on sublevelthree's answer…
    Ava_small

    If you're doing close ups you could put her in the(dry) bathtub with one of those rolly bell balls. It could be fun, is white, and will limit your area to cover with the camera

    Iknow I need to put a pic up but I'm cramming for a show and only have Internet on my phone. I can do email when on smoke breaks but any time else I have to be making too much stuff with very little time. It will happen in October. Until then im just a grey cut out (which is kinda amusing given the nature of the show, but...)

  • Comment on Fnarf's answer…
    Photo_on_2012-01-03_at_17

    GREAT tips! Thanks Mr Fnarf!!! :) :) P.S. Your profile pic with the body condom sometimes scares me! lol I go between thinking you are that robot from star wars and some kind of masked murderer! hahaha

  • Comment on sublevelthree's answer…
    Photo_on_2012-01-03_at_17

    That is a good idea. I think that is how people with those youtube viral pet videos do it! I wish I had a white tile room!!! Thank you! :) Time for you to put a pic in your profile sublevelthree!!! :)