Why wouldn't your homeowner's insurance be an option? They'll just subrogate against your neighbor (or his insurance) and you won't have to deal with it.

I just bought my first home (got keys on April 6th) and I learned a lot of things along the way. We are a similar age, but I wanted a condo or a townhouse (and ended up in the latter).

First and foremost, Redfin is awesome. My significant other and I couldn't be happier with our experience with Redfin. Their website rocks, their people rock, their system is smart and empowers the buyer, they had our back the whole time, and neither of us felt a moment of pressure or that we weren't dealing with a realtor that was on our side all the way.

The first thing I did was get pre-approved at Bank of America thinking they could give me the best deal. I had a dollar amount I was pre-approved for (including downpayment), and we planned to go around places listed 5-10% over what we actually had and lowball them until we got lucky. We eventually found exactly what we wanted for exactly what I was pre-approved for and are very happy with the decision to buy it.

Finding the house was easy -- especially using Redfin's awesome website and the great realtor they set us up with -- it's finalizing the mortgage and title that is a pain in the ass.

We went out looking together or separate (always with Redfin) at least a dozen times over 3 months before making an offer on a place that had been on the market for 5 days.

Originally, I wanted my realtor and my bank to be unrelated things. I know how to read so I know Bank of America is a horrible company, but they also are giant and offered me a crazy mortgage when I eventually put an offer in.

In fact, it was so crazy, they called me 21 days into the closing process (10 days before I was supposed to get keys) and told me they couldn't do it because the property was zoned mixed-use and too small to be considered, by them, a good investment. They first tried to blame government regulations but we eventually got them to admit it was internal policy. It was fucking bullshit and fuck Bank of America, but I'm over it and have been cautioned by many people that I should be thankful I got away from BoA's mortgage division as soon as I did.

After that, I went to someone local Redfin recommended (Sterling Savings, who also did a great job), and 30 days later I had keys.

The process of getting a mortgage has more hoops than I can possibly remember. Plus, while Redfin is all nice and electronic, nobody else is, and you have to sign and fax or mail so much junk.

Ever bought a car? Remember all the paperwork? Imagine doing that twice a week for a month solid. I would have felt much more stress if I didn't have a flexible schedule at work.

Talking cash, the #1 thing I learned was that having a 20% downpayment makes life a lot easier. It makes it easier to get the loan, and you don't have to pay for mortgage insurance.

My closing costs were about $4000 in fees (3/4 point -- you'll learn what a point is -- $450 appraisal, escrow/title/bank fees); and about $2500 in stuff I had to pre-pay (you have to pre-pay a lot of taxes and insurance stuff and early April is the one of the most expensive times of the year to do it).

After the BoA ordeal, I shopped around at 4 banks and got offers that were not significantly different. In all, total closing was around $5500, and that included the rebate I got back from Redfin.

I also had to pay for a $500 inspection and $130 worth of lock changes.

We are paying 20% less per month to own vs. renting a nice apartment in house payments, but probably more in utilities. Overall I am glad to have found the place we both really wanted, done with the process, don't have to worry about my rent going up every lease and moving every 2-3 years, and about 70% unpacked.

But there was a week or two there during that mortgage process where I wanted to punch a kitten in the face.

We intend to live here for 7-10 years and then change scenery, perhaps the east coast where the SO is from. And it would be nice to be in the position financially to just rent the place out then, which I can do after I have lived here for 1 year.

Ikea! but hurry, they sell out really fast. If you want something local and ceder try "Seattle Cedar"

Mcclendens also has good values for outdoor furniture.

Because of your south facing windows you may want to explore some additional methods of blocking incoming light. Stopping incoming radiation by application of a partially reflective film could significantly lower the amount of energy entering through the window glass and is then being absorbed by your blinds which essentially adds heat to the room. Dark color blinds also become a good absorber of heat energy. You may want to find blinds that have a colored side that faces the room and a shiny metal side that faces outwards. These will also reflect energy back out of the house.

When I replace my own blinds I plan to install those that can also be lowered from the top leaving a privacy barrier in place from the street but still allowing full natural light into the room from an open section at the top. The light entering at the top of the window then can reflect off of the white ceiling and illuminate the room from above, which is a pleasing direction for background light in a room.

There are no pictures of "foreclosures" as they are usually purchased "sight unseen" at The Courthouse Steps. Short Sales and Bank Owned property are pre-foreclosure or post-foreclosure, and can and will appear on any brokerage site.

I saw a rental property last week that had a wood floor in the 1/2 bath and a picture of the toilet, toilet paper, and a very gross stain directly in front of the toilet. No excuse for that one. When I went to the property, I would have to say the picture was an "accurate depiction" of exactly how it looked in person. :)

For an REO post-foreclosure, bank owned property, they don't want anyone claiming that anything was misrepresented. They want no after sale claims that they "didn't know" and they are often low priced "as is" sales, with no repairs to be made by the seller prior to closing. My guess is it is that type of sale and they are making it clear that the buyer will be taking it "as is" with these considerable negative issues.

Not all property sold is pretty, and not all sellers are willing to fix things. This sounds like a listing where they are making it clear that they are not going to be fixing anything, including but not limited to the many items they chose to bring to light in the photos.

The test is are the photos an accurate depiction of what the home looks like. Worse is when they photo-shop out the negatives. Truth is always best.

I'm not an expert, but I don't think you can buy the house at this point. Whoever owns the house might still be able to get the house out of foreclosure, although I don't think that's likely with the bankruptcy. The institution that has the mortgage will have a lien and/or deed of trust, so they would also have to approve of any transfer of title to the property (if that's even possible). Also I think once the foreclosure process starts there are strict legal procedures that have to be followed.

It's possible that the people living in the house are not the owners - in King County you can look up info on property owners on the KC Parcel Viewer. Once you get into the property information you can click on "Property Tax Bill" to see the owners' mailing address (if they don't live in the house) and see if they're current on the taxes. If they're behind on the taxes, I'm pretty sure whoever buys the property would be responsible for paying the back taxes.

If the house does go to a foreclosure auction, I think you need to have the entire amount of your bid in cash & be able to prove it just to bid - you can't get a mortgage for a foreclosure-auctioned house. Plus there could be issues with the house, and you might need to pay back taxes or pay for repairs just to live in the house.That's assuming that you don't get outbid by someone else.

If the house is in fairly good shape and in a market that's not too bad the bank will probably list the house with a real estate agent and sell it that way. In that case you would be able to put an offer on the house and probably get a mortgage, as long as the house meets inspection standards for a mortgage.

I don't think buying a house in foreclosure is something you should do without a lot of money and good legal & real estate advice. If you really want to pursue trying to buy from the current owners, I think the best thing you can do is hire a real estate attorney to make the arrangements for you. I don't think a real estate agent would help at this point.

Courtesy of lifehacker.com:
1. Put your towels in the washing machine, using the hottest water available. Add one or two cups of white vinegar. Do not add detergent, fabric softener, or any other products at this time. Run the washer.
2. Leave the towels in the washer and wash the same load again just as you would normally with laundry soap. Again, use the hottest water available. Don't use fabric softener or any other products.
3. Dry the load in the dryer using a high heat setting. Towels should be thoroughly dry when you pull them out. If they're not dry, put them back in, or move them immediately outside and hang them in the sunlight.

Ugh. Sounds like you have a crappy landlord. Since you've been leasing, I don't know if you have the same rights as month-to-month tenants. You should call the DPD Code Compliance Line - they might be able to tell you whether the notice and rent increases are legal. The number is 206-615-0808.

Unfortunately besides telling you whether the notice is valid or not they won't help you for a rent increase - they only assist with unlawful eviction attempts or violations of the Just Cause Eviction Ordinance. You'll need to send your landlord a letter informing them that the notice is not valid because it is a violation of Seattle Municipal Code 7.24.030 requiring 60 days notice (which should have been given no later than Jan 1st for a March 1st increase).

This is from a DPD Client Assistance Memo:

"In Seattle, if a landlord wishes to increase housing costs by 10 percent or more over the level of housing costs during the preceding 12-month period, the landlord must give written notice of the increase at least 60 days in advance. The term "housing costs" means rent and other periodic or monthly fees for other services which are paid to a landlord by a tenant, but does not include utility charges that are based on usage and that a tenant is obligated to pay under the existing terms of a rental agreement.

"Potential remedies for violations of this provision: If a landlord initiates a lawsuit for unlawful detainer (eviction lawsuit) or to enforce a rent increase which violates this requirement, it is a defense that the rent increase violates this law. A landlord can be found liable to a tenant
for any actual damages from attempting to enforce a rent or other housing cost increase that violates this law, plus double the amount of any penalties imposed, as well as reasonable attorney fees and costs."

The Tenants Union of Washington has some helpful information here: 60-Days Notice of Large Rent Increases. They have a Tenant Rights Hotline, but it's only staffed part-time so check their site for details. They also have some sample letters that might be useful.

You'll want to save all written correspondence just in case, and when you move out document the condition of your apartment if you think the landlord will try to withhold your deposit without having a valid reason. If the landlord tries to evict you illegally the DPD might help, but otherwise you'll need to find an attorney or sue them in small claims court. It's a pain in the ass but I've known people who won cases against bad landlords. Good luck!

Rather than going to a lighting-specific store, try a modern-oriented furniture store; they'll usually have a fixture or three along with the sofas, rugs and tables - although standard and table lamps tend to feature more so than pendant ones. But you might find one or two, or if nothing else, the staff there may have some ideas on where to look. There's a bunch along Western Ave in downtown Seattle, from Kasala at Pike Place Market (they also have an outlet store in SODO) down to Dania at Columbia St. Some of the stores are on the high-end spendy side, though.

It might be worth also considering a retro store: a lot of mid-century modern designs - notably the Scandinavian folded paper globes - have something of a timeless appeal to them.

Or you could go to IKEA, buy some inexpensive fixtures, and mod them.

The simple answer is an electrician. The thermostat is purely an electric thing no matter what kind of heat you have.

Moving a thermostat is typically a simple job.

I've always gone to Hawthorne Stereo for all my hi-fi repairs and they've always done a great job.

Miller's Rent-All appears to have one similar, but they don't have a photo on the website. It sounds like they have a Seattle location but the business is based in Edmonds? Not sure, I've never done business with them, but you might check this link out and give them a call:

http://www.millersrentall.com/equipment.asp?action=category&category=43&key=CARTWHEELLG

After reviewing the information on the specs and development of the Nest, it appears to be a breakthrough product. I doubt anything else is quite going to measure up to its abilities and connectivity. The claim, of course, is that you will recoup the high cost of the unit by the the savings in the management of your energy use. The wait will probably be a couple of months to actually get your hands on one.

Having said that, I went to Smarthome which I am familiar with in that I have used some X10 technology equipment for control of lights, etc. They have a section on programmable thermostats that can be controlled via internet connection.

You may be able to find a product there that would meet your needs.

You're not going to like what you're about to find out about cockroaches. As a native New Yorker I am, like all New Yorkers, a de facto cockroach expert.

If you live in a 10 unit building then there are 10+ ways that things can go horribly wrong every day. Someone moves in. Their last place had roaches. BOOM! The new place has roaches. And roaches are quite expeditious at colonizing new territory (your apartment).

Roaches can eat anything. As you go about your apartment bits of skin, food, assorted detritus and the flotsam and jetsam generated by being a biological entity are all food to a roach. Grease in your pipe? Delish! Earwax? Yum! If you really want to freak the fuck out youtube "roach in ear".

That's the bad news. The good news is you don't seem to have much of an infestation using some chemical controls is fully warranted, safe, reasonable and effective.

do you own or rent? If you rent call the landlord/property manager asap and quietly lose your shit over the infestation. Exagerate for effect. just a bit. Don't over do it. Most prop managers that give a rats ass about thier newly remodeled buildings prefer pain in the ass but fastidious tenants like yourself over destructive, sloppy ones. So long as you're up on the rent.

And document, document, document. Take a pic or the roaches and write a letter and send it registered mail or email it requesting a return receipt. Keep records. Buy sa roach motel and keep the receipt, etc. If the roach problem continues and you documented the problems you may find it much easier to get out the lease or withhold rent.

Good luck.

Are you looking for full spectrum fluorescents ( which could buzz since most do) or full spectrum incandescents ( tungsten filament, like normal round lightbulb) or full spectrum of another type of bulb ( don't think LEDs are to that capacity yet but it's been a few years since I researched the bulbs). That info can help us help you. If you don't know the type of bulb you can describe what type of end the bulb is going into

Oh yes. Many of the companies offer both services (finding tenants, and managing the property) but each is separate. Industry standard seems to be one month's rent for the finding tenants/paperwork stuff, and 10% rent per month for managing. So I'm sure they could find a company to just do the finding the tenants part.

My parents use Sagen Group and have been very happy with the results. http://www.sagengroup.com/leasing.cfm

Check BBB, the three main yellowpages (yp.com, dexknows, and superpages), and yelp for the reviews.

There's a small family-owned company that a friend used, but darn, cannot remember their name. It was an Irish or Scottish last name, but that's not much help.

I work in construction and just called one of our big commercial property management companies to see who they recommend for private landlords of just one or two properties. They pointed me to Windermere Property Management: Eastside, specifically a woman named Judy Hobb. So, there's another group to call, at least. (It's always nice to have at least two companies to compare).

Yes. It helps if you know if it's latex or enamel so you can get the correct chemicals. It's not a pleasant job by any means, and since it's interior you can't use a pressure washer to help but it can be done. Ask what kind of paint they used and write it down for future reference. Then talk to someone at the hardware store and they should point you to the proper remover. If possible go somewhere other than a box store where you are talking to someone who knows their stuff, or go to a paint store like Rhoda and talk to the dudes there

Do you live in Seattle? I'm asking because in Seattle, at least, you can't park on any given block for more than three days at a time. You can use this link to report the camper anytime it's parked in a location for more than 72 hours. By law, they'll have to move the camper within three days of getting a notice to move. Unfortunately, they only have to move to another block, but, if you keep up with it enough, they might get sick of it and move on. You have to give parking enforcement the make, model, and license plate number of the vehicle, so I recommend writing that down for safekeeping.

If you don't live in Seattle, try looking up what the law is for how long a vehicle is allowed to park on the street.

How dangerous do you think those neighbors truly are? If you think their actions will stay limited to vandalism, and if reporting the camper doesn't work, maybe you could band together with your neighbors to drive the motherfuckers away. Take turns reporting every possible incident to the authorities, keep an eye on each others' property to catch vandalism in the act, and maybe even consider setting up surveillance cameras.

It's Dunshee House - info about their 2011 holiday tree sale here: http://sasgcc.org/events/christmastree - starts Nov 25.

Try one of those magic eraser cleaning sponges.
They are actually made of melamine foam, having very small bubbles in them where the cut edge of the bubble acts like a small blade planing the surface of the material you are cleaning up. The effect would be to shave off the pen ink on the surface and even into the paint removing material that may be stained with the ink (depending how much elbow grease you use).
The material removed is very small and shouldn't eat through the paint unless you used a lot of rubbing and pressure. Try it on a place where you won't see it all the time to see how much it dulls the paint surface (if at all).

Repairing the dulled surface could be effected with a small amount of acrylic plastic cleaner (polish) like that made by Meguiar's. You might find that this would be an effective line of products to use to effect the ink removal in the first place also.

Without seeing it firsthand, I am assuming that the ones with double the wires are in the middle of a string of multiple outlets on the same circuit.
That is, one set of wires is from the supply side and the other is the supply continuing on to the next outlet on the same circuit (and same breaker or fuse).

You'd probably have more luck with the plastic window covering kits or getting some heavy-duty clear plastic sheeting and sealing all the windows. I know it's made a measurable difference in places I've lived in the past. It works a lot better if you get some temporary (removable) caulk and seal cracks in the windows first; you want to the space between the windows and plastic to be as air-tight as possible for better insulation. Here's a how-to about weatherproofing windows.

Heavy drapes would also help, although not as much as the plastic sheeting. If you get enough of those 3m command hooks you can avoid drilling holes in your walls. Also check for drafts around your door - even if your door is into an apartment hallway you can lose heat that way. You can weatherstrip the door if it's drafty.

The fleas could also be carried in on your shoes and clothing from outside the building (not just the indoor common areas) so the issue is just how far afield of your apartment is your landlord responsible for pest control. Even those indoor common areas could be easily re-infested after treatment.

Fleas have a life cycle that can last up to six months (depending on how much down time they spend in less than ideal conditions (lower than ideal humidity, etc.) so continual treatment of the area is needed in battling the problem. There is treatment of the area with general chemicals and also treatments that can be used on the animals themselves, but they all have their precautions and dangers as should be noted and directions followed very carefully.

The most effective non-chemical treatment of fleas has been shown to be thorough vacuuming of the home frequently. As much as 96% of the adult individuals that are at liberty in the environment can be removed by vacuuming and regular cleaning. It would be good to get in the habit of daily thorough vacuuming. Get routine established with someone using the vacuum and a helper(s) moving lamps and furniture, etc. so that the task can be done efficiently and quickly. Done twice a day initially with treatment of the pets themselves and you will note a very serious decline in the population. You MUST do something to kill or eliminate the vacuuming results from your home each time to prevent the fleas obtained from getting free again.

Install good bug sweeps on the bottom of the doors leading to the common areas so that there is less of an avenue of migration from outside your apartment. Treatment of the floor areas just outside your apartment with repellents will help eliminate that route also.

If your cats will (or could learn to) allow you to comb them daily you can remove many of the fleas that are surviving on them with a gentle combing with a fine flea comb (get one of these at a good pet store). My mother had our large outdoor cat trained to come to her lap each evening and stretch out on a towel for her to comb him. With a bottle cap filled with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip on the table she would comb him until she had a flea cornered and then just touch it with the q-tip to kill it and then comb it out.

Finally, I would suggest going to your landlord not only with a complaint or comment on the situation but with a more complete plan of what to do and what it would cost to do it. I have found when you go to someone and say 'here is a problem I want you to solve' that many folks freeze and don't want to have to figure it out. Instead, go to him and say 'here is a problem (many of us have here) and here is what we can do to solve it, it will only cost $X'. Presented with a considered course of action and a realistic cost estimate he may be more willing to agree to helping all of you out and participating in effecting the solution.

You actually sound like a number of people who I've lived with in shared households.

Assuming you'll be using Craigslist- don't just look through already posted room ads. Write up an ad for yourself and go into as much detail as you're comfortable with. I've found that the more honest and straight forward you are the more replies you get. And it's perfectly acceptable to list the things that you don't want in a household/roommate situation. Lay it all out! Do try to outweigh the good with the bad, and if you have any projects/things you do that will score you cool points it's probably a good idea to include those. I've also found that mentioning if you are queer/420/dog/kid/vegetarian/whatever friendly (be honest) you'll get a lot more replies.

It's far better to be in the position of people asking you to live with them than the other way around. You get to be more selective and generally just have more options than hunting for posted rooms alone.

GOOD LUCK!

The majority of rentals are handled by the owners via Craigslist. The cost of having a professional handle it is usually a month's rent to find the tenant and 10% of the rent each month to manage it while you are away. I don't do rentals, but I think you can hire them for both or one vs the other.

There will be some variance in cost, but I have heard more than one complaint from people who hired a lower cost rental service. Seems to be the rule of thumb to hire the best or none when it comes to rentals.

Finding "a rental agent" is usually as easy as hiring a "property management company" vs an agent who generally helps people buy and sell homes vs rent them out.

One of the most recent rented homes in Fremont used Windermere's Property Management Division. You want to call the Seattle Division at 206-621-2037 vs the Eastside division. They have done a few in Fremont recently. I don't work for and never have worked for Windermere. So this is not a "plug". Just an answer to your question based on facts.

You didn't tell us the number of square feet, and rentals tend to price on a plus or minus $1.00 per square foot basis. Fremont Single Family homes seem to rent for about $1.30 to $1.60 per square foot, if you want to run some rough numbers before interviewing Property Management Companies.

You can try putting it in Craigslist at a high price and see what happens. With rentals you usually get a quick response. Even people who hire a property management company often do this to test the highest possible monthly amount.

Sorry for being so long winded...but one concern worth mentioning. You said "nicely landscaped". It is usually not expected that a tenant would keep up that landscaping to the level of preserving it's value to your home's overall property value.

You should consider hiring a landscaper or gardener and include that in the cost of the monthly rental. Otherwise you will likely come back to a property that needs to be landscaped at the end of the tenancy period.

If you have persistent (difficult to clean) mold or mildew staining use Kilz primer or topcoat paint to seal it in and not have it bleed through your new paint finish.

If you want a large storage capacity, I'd recommend something like this:

You can buy them at REI or other camping outfitters. The spigot is a nice bonus; if you place it on a table, you can easily use it to wash your hands, brush teeth, do dishes, etc.

Full disclosure: I work for a GREAT sewer contractor (that's really the business category you want to search for, rather than plumbers. While some plumbers do underground work, as well as inside pipes, you'll be better off finding a company that specializes in sewers and underground work). We're Aces Four Construction, and we give free estimates. But in case you want to shop around, I'm now going to inundate you with all kinds of great tips on finding contractors in general.

Personally, I would stay away from any of the companies with the HUGE ads on the sides of buses or the back of the yellowpages books as they have to PAY for those, so their overhead is going to be WAY higher than a small family-owned business. As you're dealing with stuff underground (and there's the panic/icky factor of sewer issues) people often are at the mercy of their contractor and may be pressured into making a snap decision. Additionally, there are definitely some pirates in this industry, who tell folks they need more work than they need, and that just infuriates me. Take a few deep breaths and do a bit of research first. It'll pay off.

Check the BBB right away. You can check out specific companies here http://alaskaoregonwesternwashington.bbb.org/Find-Business-Reviews/
And they've got a directory of accredited businesses you can search by category. Here is the link.
http://www.bbb.org/western-washington/accredited-business-directory?letter=S

Do you have Angie's List? I don't, but I have friends who have LOVED using it to find their roofers and flooring contractors. The bonus, unlike with the online yellowpages, is that the reviews are real and verified (rather than allowing a company to post its own reviews, ya know?) I'd also check the main online yellowpages for reviews. Superpages.com and yellowpages.com and dexknows.com But know that these reviews aren't necessarily as reliable/screened as those on Angie's List.

Now, sit down, because the costs are going to be in the thousands. Are you in Seattle? Because it's the street restoration costs that are going to kill you. The type of street (both the material of the street, and arterial/side street, bus lane or not) will determine how much, but that portion alone can be between $3k and $9k. And if it's deep, then the thousands of dollars start to add up. Luckily, there are a few "trenchless" options these days that can help avoid the street restoration charges (liners, pipe bursting, etc). They won't always work for your situation, but it's worth asking, and reputable companies should be bringing up these options themselves.

Are you currently without service or was someone able to clear your line? If you're at least partially flowing, HOORAY! Please note that the occasional toilet flush should be alright. But another back-up may be triggered by anything that sends a LARGE amount of grey water down the line all at once (the Dishwasher, Washing Machine, and long showers or baths) so that's really where you should avoid until the repair is done. If you're

Lastly, have you had a video done of your broken sewer and do you have a copy of that video/DVD? If yes, that's great, because you can show it to the contractors giving you estimates, and then everyone is comparing apples to apples. A video will also make for a "tighter" estimate range, as there's a good idea of conditions. If not, I'd encourage you to call someone (it doesn't have to be us, but I'm generally the one who answers the phone, and I'm nice!!) to have a video done. Make sure the company you hire for the video inspectio will GIVE YOU A COPY of the inspection. A few of these companies don't, making it harder for you to get a second opinion or additional estimates, and that is SLIMY!

And now, some general HIRING A CONTRACTOR advice:
1. Always check the BBB.
2. You should also check with the state lni.wa.gov and use the "look up a contractor" button to verify that the contractor is licensed and insured, etc.
3. Get estimates from 3 companies. Most reputable contractors should be able to give you a FREE estimate. I'd be wary of anyone who wants to charge for this service.
4. Read the estimates carefully...often, underground repairs are done "time and material," meaning you are billed for the hours and the parts used, because noone can predict exactly what it'll be like once they start excavation. This can actually be a good thing, because if it takes them less time, it'll cost less money, whereas a flat repair price will need to be higher so the contractor can protect themselves if something unexpected occurs. But I've seen some estimates from companies that LOOK like they are promising you a flat price, but it's actually a variable, so you're invoice will be higher than you expected.
5.Ask for references. Again, reputable contractors should be happy to provide you the names and contact info of others who have been happy with their services.

To recap: Take a deep breath. Don't let anyone pressure you/push you around. Do some research online. Ask for references. Get a few estimates. And feel free to call me at Aces Four Construction to get a free estimate.

Anybody can make a dumb old brick. It takes jeebus or mudda naycha or maybe Ganesh to make an interesting brick. Or maybe one of the St. Vincents. I think one of the St. Vinnies was into bricks. Pretty sure it wasn't DePaul.

It's quite akin to the legendary disappearance of old barns in New England. Yuppies, in their constant effort to ruin everything for everyone, were allegedly buying entire barns for the weathered wood. The wood would then be used to side something new and make it seem authentic. Which is so poseur. And if it wasn't the yuppies it was their evil parasitical enablers: the Interior Decorators.

In New York, especially the South Bronx, we used to hear about guys being killed or trapped in buildings they were stealing the bricks from. None them realized, apparently, that one should take the bricks from the top down, not the other way around. Cave in! Collapse! Of course, the bricks would be much easier to get after that so there is no great loss without some small gain.

In short, yes, the market for old bricks is quite different from the market for new.

At .50 each I would expect that brick to be free of mortar and its structural integrety intact so at least get what you're paying for...

Do you remember Restoration Hardware when it first opened? It was full of cool retro hardware and tools and toys. You could even get model boats. Well, now they sell towels. Lots of towels. Half the store is nothing but towels and towel related products. It must be a great money maker for them. They are very nice, turkish towels in a variety of muted colors. Not by any possible definition a "hardware" but still very nice.