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Other - Pets
20110130-f62tej5eeie81iykgwsuu2biba

We have a serious bird expert in the community and no doubt you can get help with snakes, hamsters (get both for lower maintenace). Ask away.

Answers
  • What pet should i get?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    "Until one has loved an animal, a part of one's soul remains unawakened."
    Anatole France (1844-1924)

    The essence of this sentiment, that is not explained in the brief and elegant words is to have a relationship, a recognition, a shared existence and high regard, a bonded trust with an animal.

    I get the impression you realize the less than complete ideal environment your room provides, but you are willing to call it home when not otherwise involved in life. Perhaps it is not a great location to ask another being to call home all of the time. The place where you want to keep your possible future pet and the time you have to devote to it appear better suited to managing a healthy self-contained environment where an animal that does not necessarily bond with you as important, can live, solitarily or ideally with others of its own kind - like an aquarium. You become involved with having to gain the knowledge and procedures to design, set up and maintain a healthy and working biosphere where beings can live and coexist. It requires work and dedication. You gain the presence of animals that depend on your skill and dedication, and the movement and presence of an aquatic environment can be very relaxing and enjoyable for you. However, this is a situation that makes you more of an observer than a participant.

    Having an animal that you can play and interact with suggests a much higher level of awareness. Such an animal that could interact with you when you are there would find a lonely existence all the time you are gone. A huge gauge of success in doing right by a pet is not for it to merely live, but to thrive, that is to prosper and enjoy life - to have challenges, surprises, tasks, routines, and the occasional treats that make one moment in life different from another.

    You don't mention the relationship with the feline and canine residents of your house. My thought is to work to building a relationship with one of them. They presumably have a complete life there already, but one of them might find you to be the best thing happening when you are around. Then you will have that friend that will be happy to see you when you arrive and choose to hang out and interact with you when you are home.

  • Is it awkward to sit in a dog park without having a dog?
    Img_0767_small

    I always think it's really sweet when people come to the dog park because they just really want to hang out with dogs.
    Since my dog died, I've been borrowing my dad's dog once in a while and taking him to the dog park because it's fun.

  • Help! We have a screaming and sometimes biting Umbrella Cockatoo--What do we do?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    The first difficulty here is I don't want to cover points that fail to recognize your experience with birds. However your Jenday and Blue Crown Conure experiences don't necessarily prepare one for dealing with the personality and force of an Umbie. You are certainly facing the same challenges that many larger parrot owners have had to deal with and I congratulate on being proactive and seeking to learn more. This is a situation that is certainly solvable and will just require the work of learning how to reinforce the behavior you want to see and extinguish that which is not working in your home.

    First a note on the biting behavior. Biting occurs for myriad reasons but with minor exception learning to read your parrot's body language will clue you in on when a bite may occur. When I get an unexpected bite I stop and review in my mind trying to figure out what I missed, because invariably my bird has told me ahead of time that they were uncomfortable with what was going on. Sometimes at that moment when we give the "step up" command we are more focused on what we want and not looking carefully at what the bird is telling us at that time.

    Take a moment right here to read this document and review Sally Blanchard's "Important Concepts of Nurturing Guidance in Living with Companion Parrots" Sally represents an older perspective on working with parrots and does not speak in the strict sense the way more academic behaviorists do, but the principles behing these concepts are good and in a context that make sense for many people. She also has a book called "The Beak Book" that deals specifically with biting, causes and ways to address it.

    In the larger picture remember that parrots thrive on routine and predictable situations. You need to build in regularity of action and verbal cues in being around your bird. For instance, after being out for breakfast and together time I now look at my birds and say "it's playtime in your house time" and my male Poicephalus steps up and now says "time" in his small voice and my female Grey often simultaneously flies over to her cage and climbs in on her own. This has come to be by repetition, using consistent cues/actions with praise and reward for their actions. Even though my Grey is not overly enthusiastic about being in the shower with me, she is kind to my fingers and we have a routine. Also she knows when I say the words "all done" and I place her on the shower curtain rod that she is done getting wet for that session and will settle right down to watching me shower and shaking herself off. Sticking to this routine has helped make getting a shower a much less stressful time for her, she will acquiesce to my request to step onto my hand going to the shower and right on to my upstretched hand from the curtain rod afterwards without problem.

    It is not uncommon for a bird to be able to work with one member of a couple when the 'most preferred' individual is not present and then be overtly solicitous to the preferred member when they are present. Cockatoos can become sexually excited by certain kinds of handling and it is important to understand that stroking the bird the full length of its body or any excessive petting under the wings can be very stimulating and contributing to the resistance and emotional reaction that Spike was exhibiting when your husband asked him to step up (and he may have seen that the intended effort was to have him go back to his cage). Are you sure of the sex of your Umbie? Was testing done for you or just related to you when you first obtained him. One drop of blood on a paper and $20 is all you need for reliable sex testing by Zoogen. Returning to the cage compliance can be reinforced by preferred rewards left in the food bowl or given directly to the bird as it returns. If the bird is grasping the preferred treat (almond in the shell, for example) as it is placed in the cage then the beak is otherwise occupied.

    Now a true behaviorist is strictly going to talk about reinforcing selected behaviors, extinguishing others that you consider undesirable, and understanding the concepts of how this is done is very important. Timing on giving reinforcement or the bridge to reinforcement is very important. Any behavior you see your Umbie using with regularity is there because it has been reinforced. You may not realize that you are actually reinforcing behavior you don't want, but it is that process that keeps those behaviors active. Screaming is one of those behaviors that can be so disruptive and so easily reinforced. Let me assure you that it is possible to get to that point where Spike is not filling your home with unending earsplitting raucous calls.

    At this point read the following piece by Barbara Heidenreich entilted "Wow. That Bird Sure Can Scream!". Be sure to read through the bio information at the end of the piece about Barbara's credentials and take note of the other books written by her, which are also recommended (“Good Bird! A Guide to Solving Behavior Problems in Companion Parrots” and “The Parrot Problem Solver. Finding Solutions to Aggressive Behavior”). In this piece you will note she references the book “Don’t Shoot the Dog” by Karen Pryor. This is a great book to get from your library and review for the basics in animal training and how to understand the implementation of these principles to get to where you want to go with Spike.

    Getting bit is no fun and an Umbrella Cockatoo certainly has a formidable beak. Your husband has the right to expect not to be bit by Spike. We get angry, upset and confrontational at those moments and those points of drama can be very reinforcing for the bird. At those moments, keeping cool, getting the bird to a secure space without emotional outburst and removing himself is best. The long lesson here would be that the bird did not get what they wanted in the interaction. They wanted to be with him and he is now gone. Then the screaming follows because it is the next behavior that usually gets it some attention.

    When my female Grey came to us she would make an Alexandrine alarm call three times (very loud) and then a man's voice would come out her yelling, "KNOCK IT OFF!". My spouse said "What do we do?" and I said "ignore it". The alarm calls disappeared but the statement remained and she now uses it when the Poicephalus buzzes her with a close flyover (which we think is great and obviously our actions help reinforce it).

    Your husband removing himself for a couple of days is probably not a period of time that will serve any direct learning objective that you have for Spike, but he must be confident in handling the bird when he returns and using a t-stick or other protective hard perch for Spike to step up on at those times when your husband thinks a bite might occur is one method that can work. There is nothing about proper training techniques that require you to be hurt by Spike. Take precautions as needed. Your husband is going to be the most important person in extinguishing the screaming behavior and understanding the process and being commited to working on it is critical. With the screaming behavior resolved through training, establishing the other routines of how you would like mornings and daily life work on weekends can be much easier to deal with.

    I have the book resources mentioned above as well as several of the Good Bird! training DVDs by Barbara Heidenreich. I would recommend getting them (use the library). If you were close to me and there was an easy way to share them I could lend them to you. As with anything, reading and learning the information is one thing, working on the training is the most important part (but you must understand how best to reinforce what behaviors you want and not the ones you want to extinguish). I could also arrange for you to talk to people far more experienced than I in training larger birds if that would be helpful. Contact me directly using the the NWEBS website.

    It is difficult to anticipate the most important points to make with this not being a dialogue but I hope that this helps. Remember, there is a huge experienced community of bird owners out there that would be happy to help you in working with your bird. All of the situations and behaviors you described can be addressed and resolved with proper work. This is doable. Properly applied, the appropriate behavior training methods can be very powerful.

     

  • Hey Russ, what kind of bird is this?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    It's a Lovebird, Genus Agapornis.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lovebird

    I am going to say Peach-faced Lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis) and that is probably right.

    When you look it up you will think I was wrong because the coloration is so pale. It is one species where there are lots of color morphs in the pet trade because of selective breeding. They are given various names dependent on the resultant coloration.

    Examples of Peach-faced Lovebird color morphs

    Lovebirds are quite intelligent and can have very endearing personalities and make great pets. Some folks will report that they can also be little stinkers when it comes to dealing with humans. There are many factors that impact this and whether they are single bird pets or kept as a pair or with others can be a big factor.

    That situation was a set-up. My guess is that shelf is a favorite spot for that bird and they probably ran through that a few times before filming. Notice the waste basket was so carefully placed so the turtle had a landing spot. Also the bird looks over the edge to see where the turtle wound up.

    To really get a good perspective on lovebirds you need to talk to an experienced lovebird person, which I am not (but I could find one for you if you wanted).

     

    Note: I wrote this response right away but my internet connection went down and just came back.

  • Fighting female parakeets.. help!
    Qlandav2ex_small

    My experience base is with larger parrots so I also contacted a club member that specializes in the smaller psittacines to confirm my advice and learn more.

    First of all we are entering Spring and the days are lengthening. Most of us are starting to see changes in the behavior of our birds. My guys are just starting to molt some of their contour feathers. In budgerigars (AKA budgies or commonly, parakeets) this is the time they will show interest in nesting behavior and reproductive hormones may run high, hence the egg laying. Your birds are of the right age to become sexually mature. Sometimes the presence of another bird close by (cagemate) can help in triggering the egg laying process (even though the other bird is also a female), but the drive to protect the eggs will set the one that is laying the eggs against the other. The attention to the "bird in the mirror" is also related to this protective drive so you may want to remove the mirror for now.

    You MUST SEPARATE the two females before you have a serious injury or death of one of your birds. You will need another cage similar to the one you are using now or adequate to housing just one bird. You can place the cage in close proximity so they are still aware of each other, but you NEED to give them each their own space. This will not always be true, but for this season and with this current situation they need to be apart from one another now.

    Even though you are not providing a nest box she will attempt to "nest" in other ways, tearing up newspaper that she can reach at the bottom of the cage, tearing parts from an available toy, even digging in the food dish (you may want to try a different kind of food container that is not as large if she is trying to get in it). Try to limit her access to those nest making materials as these activities pop up (don't strip normal toys from the cage, the general environment can remain the same). Leave the eggs she lays where she gathers them on the cage bottom. She probably will not sit on them but if she does there is no harm and that activity will preclude her from laying more. If you remove the eggs she will continue to lay more and the danger is in having one not exit normally from her body, called becoming "egg bound". This condition is very serious and death is likely without a visit to an avian vet. Leave the eggs for two to three weeks (normal hatching time is about 17-21 days) unless you are convinced that she is not paying any attention to them at all. But, initially they need to stay to stop the egg laying process. After they do not hatch she will lose interest and may break them herself and you can remove them.

    The male budgie has a blue cere and sometimes it may just appear as a blue line or border so look carefully - that may help you in figuring out the sex of the other bird. The crusty cere can be something simple or may be indicative of other health problems. First, simply let this bird bathe a couple of times in close succession over a couple of days and see if that helps. We don't often realize how often they need to bathe and if not given access to water in a dish (pie plate, etc) or gently sprayed or misted regularly they can have some difficulty clearing dust from their nares. Being through a cold spell recently the relative humidity of our homes has been very low unless you are using a humidifier or attending to it in other ways. Dry air can cause respiratory problems and this may just be the result of the dry environment we have had indoors recently.  My resource person mentioned the importance of a cuttlebone for self grooming of the beak and face and also perhaps to scape some of it into the water bowl to increase calcium intake somewhat. Egg laying can be very taxing nutritionally on a bird (creating the egg and shell not to mention the molting of feathers this time of year) so be sure you are giving your birds a good diet.

    Please feel free to contact me through the club website if you want to be referred to someone to mentor you in the process of working through this situation or in caring for your birds in general. Also I would be interested to know how this all works out for you and your birds and to expand my own knowledge. Contact me through this page.

     

     

  • Is my frog ok?
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Firebelly toads are called toads because of their bumpy skin but as you accurately have noted they are really frogs.

    Frogs absorb chemicals from their environment easily through their skin so first point would be to suspect features of the new tank and its furnishings as possible source of problem. However you mention that only one of the two is showing a change in behavior, which is curious.

    Did you scrupulously clean the new rocks before using them. Rinsing and scrubbing with lots of water (avoid using strong soaps or detergents because any residue of that could really be a problem) - even boiling and/or baking them in an oven at below 250° could be a way of making sure they carry no unwanted organisms or substances. Assuming you purchased the rocks to be used with frogs I won't worry about the type of rock (minerals) that they are being exposed to but you may want to think about that also. Anything that would give off a strong salt or other ion element (formerly salt water environment rocks) could affect health.

    The new tank must also be prepared and cleaned properly and you need to make sure the water you use for their soaking area has been properly seasoned or filtered to eliminate chlorine.

    The aspects of sensitivity of frogs through contact with substances through their skin extends to you also. They can become agitated because of human hand oils and you may experience skin reactions them also (always wash you hands well after touching them). Handling them should be kept to an absolute minimum and use of clean latex or sterile gloves would be recommended.

    The fire in your building could put some pretty toxic soup chemicals into the air and that could wind up in the water and surface of their environment so you may want to work carefully to be sure it is very clean.

    If you still have their former environment set up I think transferring the listless one back to it to see if there is any change might be a good idea. If you think that your home was contaminated by the smoke then that may not have any real benefit.

    Remember they need water area, dry land area and moss to hide in. Temperature is important but higher daytime temps (72°–78°F) and lower nighttime temps (65°F) are normal with a basking area going as high as 75–85°F (very localized, be careful). They need a source of UVB light to facilitate uptake of calcium (full spectrum fluorescent bulbs) but the use of heat lamps for temperature has to be applied carefully.

    As you try to revive this listless frog don't go zero to sixty in split seconds, warm the environment slowly so that the return to a more normal range of temperatures is gradual.

    Lastly come up with a method to keep their temperature needs more constant if a power outage was to happen again. Using hot water in milk jugs placed around their tank could provide local warmth and even having a plan to relocate the tank to a friend's house where you can set it up for identical conditions to how you have it at home can work.

    I hope some of this helps.

    Be sure to comment back as the state of your frogs resolves - I am always interested in how these cases resolve.

    As a source of more knowledge and expertise I recommend contacting folks through the Pacific Northwest Herpetological Society (PNHS).
    Information about their activities and meetings can be reviewed at:
    http://www.pnwhs.org/

  • How to humanely get rid of pesky racoons around the city neighborhood?
    Cats_small

    Perhaps set a radio next to the cat food. I heard that as a way to keep them out of attics and what not. But the food being there might encourage them to become bold and disregard the radio.

    Or put food in a box or behind a barrier that has doors smaller than the raccoons but large enough for the cats.

Questions
Recent Comments
  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Great!

    Of course, just hanging out together is probably all that is needed, but you could also specialize a little so your relationship have some features different from those with others. Get some interactive cat toy for you both - a dowel or small springy rod with a string and a "catchable" attractive toy on the end can be a great game for chasing and such. Be sure to let the cat catch the prey occasionally so the game has a periodic reward. Just a length of cotton rope with a big knot on the end can be great fun or a low power laser pointer beam to chase (be very very careful of not shining it in anyone's eyes, yours or theirs, if you use this stimulus).

    On the subject of fish, actually, a fish tank can be a very interesting object for a cat to sit in front of and watch the fish swimming about (a proper tank with a cover and light so that there is no way for cat or paws to get to the water). Setting up a chair or stool near as a viewing platform can work as a great vantage point. Most cats will just watch and occasionally reach out and try to touch them by contacting the glass if it is within reach.

    Even easier is to get a DVD to play on a TV so you have an aquarium to view without the hassle of actually taking care of one (these sell for under $15):
    http://www.plasmawindow.com/aquariumdvd.html
    These actually look pretty good.
    If the cat can reach it, you better have a CRT TV or other hard surface screen.
    There are also DVDs of birds designed for some entertaining cat TV time.
    (I have DVDs of parrots that are designed to provide some kinds of faux companion time for the alone bird.)

    BTW, Thanks for the 'shroom.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Pigeondm2802_228x243_small

    and now I definitely can't get a fish!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Pigeondm2802_228x243_small

    Good advice! One of the cats adopted me shortly after I posted. The bonding has been highly successful and incredibly easy.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Eagle_small

    I had a red (Mao) and a blue beta (HH Tenzin Ghatzo)!! I liked to think that HH was deflecting the mean stares of Mao with thoughts of compassion. (I loved your post because it made me believe that perhaps I wasn't crazy for my exuberance on the subject. :)

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dsc_0339_small

    Bravo!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    (Sorry for long post but this is info I hope you or others can find useful in the future.)

    Finches and canaries may be the best match if you really want live birds. Look for a local club or folks that keep them to get firsthand contact and availability. And, of course, budgies are very engaging and with a few, quite melodically vocal. The reality on budgies are that they will probably have a much shorter life span, especially if you take in birds that need homes. Birds are often fed a less than ideal diet and their longevity will reflect that.

    Avoiding having parrot species because you think it feeds the trade in wild-caught animals is not really valid now (or an extremely minor incidence) as importation of wild caught birds (except by an extensive permitting process) has been banned in the US since the Wild Bird Conservation Act of 1993. This is not true in European countries and the incidences of illegal trade are driven by marketability there and in the Middle East. We (the USA) are seen by the conservation groups over there as being so far ahead with respect to protecting world populations by this action (closing of our borders to wild-caught birds).

    So birds found here in the pet trade here are bred here. The interesting paradox is that there are birds available here that are considered highly endangered in the wild and there are bird species commonly kept as pets in the world that are ubiquitous in their native environments (and in good stead population wise) that can't be obtained here. This is because there were none in this country at the time the borders were closed to importation of new birds. For the endangered ones it can also mean that the world wide wild population may have declined significantly after the current birds were in captivity here.

    There is actually a component of the domestic breeding of rare and endangered birds that keep the genetic diversity of some rare species in existence. The story of "Blu" in the movie RIO that was just out this last year is actually based on a true story about finding a Spix Macaw here in the US that was repatriated for a critical breeding program.

    http://rioyou.blogspot.com/2011/04/true-story-of-blu-blue-macaw.html

    The birds I have known or currently care for have hatch origins in Arizona, Kentucky, Florida and Washington (state), known by legband codes and research. Of the three I have now one had two homes before me, another had four previous homes and my most recent addition was found clinging to the ivy on a concrete wall on a street in Seattle last July. Despite extensive searching no one was looking for this gal. She has full flight feathers but does not fly any but very short distances to the ground (we will work on developing skills as time goes on). (My other birds are fully flight able.) How she would up on that Seattle street is a complete mystery. Current theory is that she was dumped. After nearly two months of searching I declared her part of my flock, had her fully vetted and DNA sexed and eventually arrived at an appropriate name.

    For anyone contemplating having a parrot, there are plenty of birds that need new homes. Complete neophytes should find a local bird club, read extensively and develop a friendship with someone that has experience with that species close by that can mentor them.

    Chickens can be very domesticated and available in a huge array of beautiful variations of plumage. Plus you can have egg production to use. Coop construction can be simple to ornate and in some areas there are good natured "coop of dreams" competitions and tours. And you are right, they can also provide dinner, eventually.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    2008_0522stuff0016_small

    See, I don't want parrots or similar for all of those reasons--exotic vets, the extremely long lifespan, demanding dietary and social needs--and because I think such birds belong in the wild, where they can best tend their own needs (and I support preserving their habitats and eliminating trade in wild-caught animals).

    Given where I live, I'm thinking chickens. Because if all else fails, I can eat them.

  • Comment on Carly Davis's answer…
    C5d579be15d0cabd9fcdff538f017ca1_reasonably_small_small

    Ok, the experts agree...Coyote. Here's the reponse of the Department of Wildlife:

    John,
    It does look like a coyote. They can be dangerous, especially to small
    pets. We technically don't come out on coyotes, we don't have the
    manpower. WE suggest that you contact your apartment complex managers
    and if the coyote hangs around for long, to hire a trapper to have it
    removed. If it's possible to send a note out to all occupants - let
    them know to keep their small pets inside, don't feed them outside, and
    to keep their garbage picked up. I'm sure you use a large bin type
    garbage container. They are garbage dwellers and are always looking for
    food. They tend to be a bit skittish and hopefully will scare away. If
    you happen to have a paintball gun, if you see it shoot it in the rear
    end, not in the face, and it will get the message it's not wanted there.
    If your manager should want to hire a trapper, we have a list of names
    for your area.

    Thank you for contacting WDFW.

    -----Original Message-----
    From: John Bailo
    Sent: Monday, October 24, 2011 10:14 PM
    To: Reportpoaching (DFW)
    Subject: Coyote in parking lot?

    On Sunday here in the parking lot of my apartment complex on Kent East
    Hill, I saw what I think was a coyote.

    Here is a picture...can you confirm, and if so is it dangerous?

    https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BQl0sZLbUoRB6_hSzVuxUo_22Z_yuI-4RW
    vzZNey9k4?feat=directlink

  • Comment on Carly Davis's answer…
    C5d579be15d0cabd9fcdff538f017ca1_reasonably_small_small

    Thanks for both answers...sent pic to Dept of Wildlife for verification.

  • Comment on kitschnsync's answer…
    C5d579be15d0cabd9fcdff538f017ca1_reasonably_small_small

    Done!

  • Comment on Carly Davis's answer…
    Gold-head_small

    I agree: coyote. Something is wrong with his tail, though; it's lost its thick coat of fur. Mange is a good possibility.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Thank you.

    I know I often go beyond the question asked.
    But when someone directs a question to me I hope to cover it as thoroughly as possible in a reasonable space.

    I am also aware that our contributions here will live on for a long time. I try to include some timely references as well as some information that can have value later on for a reader. As always, I hope people will seek out information from multiple sources as well as reading current literature. There are lots of local folks that have way more experience than I in working with specific species of birds, you just have to seek them out. There is not one person in the 'bird community' I know that is not interested in educating people and sharing their knowledge and experience.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dscf6268_for_web_small

    This what I love about Qland... I personally have no interest in keeping birds, but I totally enjoyed reading this. You're awesome, Russ.

  • Comment on Bion Satir's answer…
    Photo_on_2011-05-23_at_16

    "Although I like to think that I'm not creepy"...
    Well said, sir.

  • Comment on Grisha Stewart's answer…
    Photo_on_2011-05-23_at_16

    Perfect! I'm not creepy or a guy!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dsc_0339_small

    You deserved the 'shroom' and more for being so helpful.

    The additional information about the eyes is very useful. Please thank your friend for me.

    I think the best way to handle Spike's demanding screaming for my husband is for him to leave the room. He has tried noise-cancelling ear protection and facing away from Spike while reading or working on the computer and that hasn't worked. Leaving the room is best.

    Right now Spike is quiet. He had his usual Sunday shower with me and is playing quietly in his cage.

    The screaming is a relatively new and we definitely were reinforcing the behavior by saying, "stop" or simply acknowledging him. We knew better, but sometimes "knowing" isn't enough. You were able to succinctly articulate all the information I've read on-line, in Bird Talk, etc. Thank you.

    The biting has become more of a problem. I think several issues contribute. My husband not taking Spike's non-verbal cues seriously and my husband's vision. He is blind in his left eye and has limited vision in his right eye. Consequently, he doesn't always pick up on Spike body language as quickly. Also, Spike wants to play more aggressively with my husband--playing ball for example--and my husband doesn't see his movements as quickly and will pull his hand away abruptly, which seems to communicate something that causes Spike to bite.

    One thing we learned last weekend was the different way he and I feed Spike in the morning. I uncover the cage, remove the food/water dishes, open the door and allow Spike to come out. He refuses to "step up" and wants to come out, sit on the top of the cage, and then allow me to say, "step up." This little routine was not being replicated by my husband. Instead, he would ask Spike to "step up" and then Spike would get mad and bite. Now, my husband has adjusted to give Spike the same routine as he has M-F. Yesterday, however, Spike bit him when he tried to get him to go back in his cage. This morning, after reading your answer, we let Spike play and then said, "It's playtime in your house time." His "reward" was me swinging him (he holds onto my finger and I "swing" him back and forth with my arm. He loves it!) Then he happily went into his cage.

    We will definitely have a conference to discuss our strategy so we're both on the same page. Again, I greatly appreciate your input. I printed your answer and comment and the articles you suggested. I will also get a copy of Sally Blanchard's book and read it.

    Russ, I really appreciate your help and will give you an update next weekend!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Thanks for the 'Shroom.

    I read in your response that you guys really do have a good idea of where to go and how to proceed. Conference together so you both are on the same page as to your plan to respond to Spike's behavior, addressing the most critical points right away, the screaming.

    It can be as simple as your husband goes elsewhere in the house on the weekend and Spike screams while you are busy nearby with household tasks ignoring the noise (wear earplugs if necessary). When those moments occur when Spike is quiet for a period you tell him what a great bird he is, perhaps give him a small treat. Your husband only reappears when Spike is quiet for a time. If he has to be in the same area he ignores Spike if screaming is occurring and only interacts with him when he is quiet. If screaming occurs he immediately turns away, busies himself with other activities or leaves the room with no drama. Spike will learn what behavior gets him the attention he wants.

    This afternoon I talked with a very experienced cockatoo person and they mentioned one specific behavior to watch for when judging emotion in your Umbie. Most parrot owners key in on body posture, movement and feathers. For those of us with birds with colored irises seeing pinning pupils is a tell to excitement, but that is not possible with dark eyed cockatoos. Obviously a fluffy looking U2 is in relaxed state and sleeked appearance denotes an excited or other high state of awareness. This advice is specifically related to the eyes. Almond shaped space of the visible eye (created by the eyelids) shows a relaxed state (with normal blinking). Half closed eyes are seen in a bird that is very relaxed and happy. When in an excited state the eye shape goes very round. This could be curiosity, but combined with non-blinking is a tell of intense emotion and a good time to pay attention to the rest of the bird's postural cues and that beak.

    I do hope you let me know how things go with Spike.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Dsc_0339_small

    Thank you for all the time and thought you put into answering my question. Yes, having experience with smaller birds does not prepare you for the "big guys." Spike is a male. The breeder had him tested. Our Jenday conure was a female and died at age 18 from being "egg bound." Frankly, after that traumatic episode, we wanted a male. Yes, they are more aggressive, but they don't lay eggs.

    I have downloaded the articles you suggested and printed out your answer. Much of what you said we have started doing. The problem was being inconsistent and not having a strong strategy. I have run across the websites you mentioned and my instinct was not to trust there "new" and "hidden" secrets. I will check out Heidenreich's website. Her article about screaming was very good.

    My husband was unable to not interact with Spike. He did remove himself from the family room, where Spike's cage is located, and worked upstairs most of the day. We believe Spike got the message and was more appropriate in his behavior. My husband said you are correct he was not looking at Spike's body language when he asked him to "step up." He appreciated your point and it made sense. Thanks again and I will keep you posted! -Andrea

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    So, it is the next morning and I'm looking back at my answer wanting to add a lot more, but that could be a bit overwhelming and verbose. I am amazed that I could create such a long statement without once using the full term "positive reinforcement" which is the most powerful concept of all in working with parrots. It underlies all of the methods and philosophy of good animal training.

    I would suggest looking through the many free things you can read on Barbara Heidenreich's site, .

    Also, avoid any websites that speak in terms of "secrets" or "new methods" of training and teaching parrots. There are ubiquitous ads and a website out there espousing many ebooks for sale that promise to teach you "hidden" secrets at working with your birds. The concepts are not new and are just drawn from the well known principles of positive reinforcement (as heavily plagiarized from highly respected sources) and not presented very completely or appropriately. There are many expert voices worth listening to out there but the "W" brothers are not among them.

  • Comment on Nim Chimpsky's answer…
    Bierce1_small

    "This is probably one of the reasons why cat poop is appealing to dogs, as gross as that is - it's full of undigested proteins"

    Neat, thanks.

  • Comment on Nim Chimpsky's answer…
    Nim_chimpsky_small

    I should clarify that "obligate carnivore" doesn't necessarily mean that cats can't ever be vegan. It's conceivable that by adding supplements and combinations of food usually not found in nature, vegan cat food could be made nutritionally complete. Whether commercially available vegan cat food is really nutritionally complete is still up for debate, though.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Wa_usa_small

    Brilliant! You're a scholar and a gentleman. Thanks!

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    Please note those last comments were just a way of trying to end this side of the conversation politely as we obviously were at the point of just having to agree to disagree.

    Additionally, someone here has decided that every comment I make in this exchange deserves a down vote, so I am just getting repeatedly hit over this issue (as I am sure this comment will be down voted now also). Oh well.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Bierce1_small

    "I had a friend whose cat would not leave her alone until he got some of the broccoli (raw or cooked) that he knew was in that grocery bag she just brought in (by olfactory detection presumably)."

    My cats sometimes want to eat chocolate and onions.

    "If you ever become a parrot owner you will find out there are multiple two sided controversies that bird folks love to debate about, but usually with an air of respect that we all are free to make those decisions for our own flock members."

    That's great, but we're not talking about controversies in bird nutrition.

    My cats like veggies as a snack as well, and I give them some from time to time. I would be an cruel, unthinking person to feed them a solely vegetarian diet.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Spiralavatar_small

    Not likely in this lifetime. My aversion to keeping parrots and other birds indoors borders on phobia (traumatic parrot incident in pre-school).

    Respecting one's right to believe does not necessitate respect for said belief.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    I had a friend whose cat would not leave her alone until he got some of the broccoli (raw or cooked) that he knew was in that grocery bag she just brought in (by olfactory detection presumably).

    If you ever become a parrot owner you will find out there are multiple two sided controversies that bird folks love to debate about, but usually with an air of respect that we all are free to make those decisions for our own flock members.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Spiralavatar_small

    I think that strict vegans and strict vegetarians are simply misguided. A case of faulty data, rather than poor character. My fear about pet owners is that they would let their own diet politics interfere or cloud their judgment concerning what their pets should be eating.

    I don't own cats currently. I grew up in a household with them, though. We fed them real meat at least a third of the time, supplemented with kibble, canned food, and grass.

    I love cats, and I want them to be treated as what they are- tiny carnivorous beasts. You can cuddle with it (and you should!), but make no mistake that if it were bigger than you, it would probably try to eat you. And you couldn't blame them for it.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    So your doubt is with the manufacturers of such foods as well as the non-meat sources philosophy of how to feed cats.

    I don't think that there is any agenda other than sales and to do that you have to provide a product you can stand behind and market to an audience that will be faithful for repeat sales. If the food doesn't provide what is needed for good health I am sure that will be noticed by the vets these cats see for checkups.

    The world is filled with all types of folks, it would be a pretty boring place if we were all the same. I find it hard to believe that any pet owner that spends time thinking about their pets true needs is not capable of making appropriate choices (vegan or otherwise) for their pets.

    For the dentition aficionados who agree that those teeth are made for shearing flesh only I would expect you to be at the raw meat counter buying for your cats and never in the canned cat food aisle. Make no mistake about it, there is no shearing of flesh experience in a can of cat food.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Spiralavatar_small

    I seriously doubt the efficacy of vegan or vegetarian formulated pet food. I doubt their claims. I think their agenda clouds the science behind the claims.

    Why should people withhold meat from cats? Eating animal flesh is what cats evolved to do. Ever noticed their teeth? They're for shearing flesh. Let the beast be the little carnivore it was born to be.

  • Comment on Russ Campbell, NWEBS's answer…
    Qlandav2ex_small

    There is nothing that says a proper complete diet of protein amino acids and all other nutrients needed by a cat can't be provided from other than animal sources. What do you think is in meat that is only available there? There are other than animal sources of complete protein. Please enlighten us as to the magic component of meat.

    Just to be clear I have never fed any mammalian pet of mine this way. Even my avian charges get a very small bit of meat once in a while in their otherwise complete diet coming from vegetable, fruit, grain, some seed, and pelleted diet sources.

    Again most cat foods that contain meat actually come from sources that I am sure you wouldn't put on a plate and eat. Unless you are slapping a whole piece of chicken or beef in front of them I am stymied by your insistence that only meat will give a cat the proper dining experience (aka "meat").

    By the way, one of the most common ailments in older cats is kidney problems and other issues prevalent with mammals eating diets too high in protein alone.