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Wine & Cheese Week
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Fetch hither le fromage de la belle France! And what wine would go well with that? So many choices, so apparently simple and yet - there are always questions... now you can ask the local experts:

Doug Nufer of European Vine Selections, Shane Wahlund of DeLaurenti, ...

Answers
  • Goat cheese!
    Sheri_tattoo_small_small

    As a general rule, goat cheeses are always a bit more expensive than others, and local goat cheeses even more so. This is basically due to the fact that the animals yield less milk per animal than sheep or cows, and the cheesemakers have to do a lot more work to produce the same amount of cheese. However, aged goat cheeses are so incredibly flavorful that a small $7-$8 hunk will go a long way with your tastebuds.

    Gothberg Farms in Bow, WA is producing some amazing aged cheeses right now, my current fave is Woman of La Mancha, a pressed farmshouse cheese that is given a generous coat of smokey paprika and then aged for a year. It is very firm, dry, and has the most amazing finish. This is a great cheese to snack on the porch with a cold beer, mmmmm!

  • Who is your favorite local cheese maker? (in the greater cascadia area)
    Nose_small

    My main job at Edible Seattle is to research local cheeses, so this might be a longer answer than you're looking for.

    1) Rhonda Gothberg at Gothberg Farms in Bow, WA makes a variety of goat cheeses. Her best are the fresh chevre, a perfectly white, slightly dense/chalky orb of perfect cheese. It's amazing. She also makes a great Gouda from a recipe translated for and given to her by a Dutch cheesemaker. It is slightly sweet, rather mild, and softer than a traditional Gouda. Several flavored varieties are available. Her newest cheese is called Woman of La Mancha, and is based on a Manchego recipe (although Manchego is a sheep's milk cheese). Its rind is rubbed with paprika and other spices. Another great one she makes is Caerphilly, a Welsh cheese with a slightly dry texture and a little bit of a crumbly pate. It tastes more like Cornish Yarg than a traditional Caerphilly. Her cheeses are available at several farmers markets (incl. Bellingham, Anacortes, and Everett), at Calf & Kid, and have been on the menu at emmer&rye and 106 Pine. She's also holding a Texas style BBQ on June 6th (she is a Texas native) featuring a beer and cheese tasting I will be leading with Boundary Bay brews.

    2) Samish Bay, also in Bow, makes a fresh cow's milk cheese called Ladysmith. I am obsessed with it. Also, their Black Mambazo, a firm pressed cheese with a rind rubbed with cocoa, chipotle, and black pepper is awesome on its own or in a salad.

    3) Estrella Family Creamery in Montesano, WA makes a dozen of my favorite cheeses, including Caldwell Crik Chevrette and Brewleggio on the washed-rind front, a great gruyere style cheese called Valentina, a delicious blue called Wynoochee River Blue, and award winners like Weebles, a smoked provolone.

    A slight disclaimer: My true favorite cheeses are from Ballard cheesemaker Bridget Parkhill, about whom I wrote an article for the May/June issue of Edible Seattle. Her gorgonzola-style Stasera facciamo l'amore (Italian for "tonight we make love") is magical. She also makes earth-shatteringly delicious burrata, geimer, and pecorino, among others. You can find her cheeses online at www.fromagebondage.net but they aren't available in stores.

  • What is the connection between liberalism and wine+cheese?
    Picture_115_small

    The French.
    Question Answered.

  • Do you have any cheese suggestions for a late in life emerging foodie?
    Nose_small

    When it comes to navigating a cheese counter, one of the best strategies when starting out is to become accustomed with some cheeses you can find in many places so that you can establish a baseline and a taste for those cheeses. I also like to taste cheeses made of different milks so I can learn about the various qualities of each milk. Although each breed of cow, goat, sheep, etc. lends slightly different fat and flavor characteristics to cheese, there are some standards to look for with each type of milk. The following cheeses exhibit those characteristics well.

    One of the first cheeses I ever fell in love with was one called Fromager d'affinois, a double-cream cow's milk brie-like cheese from France which has a texture like icing and a slight sweetness to the flavor. The fat content of this cheese is especially high (around 60%) because of the manufacturing process, during which the milk undergoes ultrafiltration, wherein the water content is removed quickly from pasteurized milk, leading to a greater concentration of flavors. I recommend it as a stepping stone cheese because the white mold rind is edible, its flavor is magnificent but won't offend beginning palates, and its price point is lower than many other cheeses of its quality. It is delicious with a La Brea or Tall Grass baguette and a few Castelvetrano olives. Florette is the goat's milk version and is also delicious, though with a slightly less consistent standard of excellent mouthfeel (some have a slightly ammoniacal taste to them), and they make a few mixed with herbs, which I haven't tried. You can buy the Fromager d'affinois for anywhere from $13/lb to $20/lb, depending on where it's from (Fred Meyer in Ballard sells it the cheapest I've found and often has specials on it, making it even cheaper. Town and Country markets sell it for a lot more).

    Beecher's makes a variety of great cheeses which are also reasonably priced and of high quality. Their classics are Flagship and Flagship Reserve, which have a texture somewhere between Gruyere and cheddar. They are semi-hard cow's milk cheeses and as the cheese ages, they develop a number of crystals which add an interesting texture to the cheese. The Flagship Reserve is aged for at least one year and is wrapped in cloth, allowing air to get in and a greater amount of moisture loss, which increases the flavor of the cheese. It was named America's best cheddar in 2007 by the American Cheese Society. Additionally, Beecher's has recently begun to make Flagsheep, a ewe's milk version of the cheese. The mild grassiness of ewe's milk goes very well with the firmness of the cheese. At a recent cheese class taught by Beecher's founder Kurt Dammeir, we found that Flagsheep was the easiest cheese to pair with wines and I think it would probably go very well with Trappist ales. However, unlike regular Flagship which is so widely available, they've sold it at Costco, I haven't seen Flagsheep anywhere but at the Beecher's store at Pike Place Market.

    One of my favorite goat's cheeses for beginners is Garrotxa, which is often on the menu at many restaurants (recently, I've seen it at Le Pichet, Cafe Presse, and 35th Street Bistro) because it is a great table cheese (read: goes with whatever you're making and can be purchased and served even before you yourself know what's for dinner) and is a fantastic expression of classic goat milk characteristics, particularly in the tangy flavor and long, grassy finish.

    Humboldt Fog is another ubiquitous, delicious goat's milk cheese. The style it is made in is called a Morbier, which is a classic French cheese made with the milk from the morning milking on top and the evening milking on bottom, with a layer of ash in between to separate the two. The story with Morbier cheese is that the bottom layer is made from leftover curd from the evening milking and is then topped with a tasteless ash to keep it from drying out overnight. Then, the next morning, the top layer is added from curd leftover from the morning milking (the idea being that there is not enough curd left to make a whole wheel, so the combination of the two milkings is needed). Humboldt Fog ripens outward from the rind and is best when young or slightly older, as it can develop a rather unpleasant ammoniacal flavor if left to ripen for too long. It makes a great appetizer or dessert cheese and is available almost everywhere you buy good cheese. The cheese comes from California's Cypress Grove Cheese company, which was formed by Mary Keehn, one of the first artisan cheesemakers in the US.

    Another gateway drug in the cheese family which combines characteristics from all three of the most common milk types (cow, goat, ewe) is Iberico, which is an interesting semi-hard Manchego-style cheese made in Central Spain. The cheese has a slight oiliness which develops on the surface as it breathes, but it's not unpleasant. It has enough moisture to eat with bread or crackers, but is a great cheese to eat with meat like Prosciutto di San Daniele or Spanish chorizo, and a Rioja or Washington Tempranillo (such as the 07 Tempranillo from Gramercy Cellars). Like Fromager d'affinois, Iberico is rather widely available and is not incredibly expensive (I buy mine at PCC).

    Other wonderful choices: Brillat-Savarin (France, cow), Cashel Blue (Ireland, cow), Istara AOC (France, ewe), Ossau-Iraty (France, ewe), Brebichon (Corsica, ewe), Manchego (Spain, ewe), Bucheron (France, goat).

    Also, some of my favorite cheeses were recommendations from awesome cheese slingers, including Dylan at Whole Foods in Interbay, Whitney at Beecher's, and Jana and Gus at DeLaurenti.

    I hope that helps you as you begin the wonderful, wallet-breaking journey into the land of cheese addiction.

  • Best Method for Stove Top Grilled Cheese Sandwiches?
    Sheri_tattoo_small_small

    Cast iron skillet, butter the bread instead of melting it in the pan, both essential and excellent recommendations. The other thing to always do is shred your cheese. Larger slices or hunks of cheese take longer to melt and you'll often wind up with burnt bread. This also opens up the kinds of cheeses you can use, I love a combo of some aged gouda and a sharp cheddar. Definitely ask your cheesemonger what will melt well as some cheeses do better than others in that respect.
    Keep the heat low and make sure the skillet is fully warmed up before grilling. Enjoy!

  • How do you figure out what crackers are going to be good with a particular cheese?
    Nose_small

    When you're picking out crackers, think of them the same way you would a wine pairing: you don't want anything to challenge the basic flavors of the cheese unless the cheese sucks in the first place (and, in that case, why the fuck are you eating it?). That said, some of my favorite crackers have strong flavors on their own and are eaten with cheese simply to bring out less obvious nuances of the cheese. Here are some of my favorites:

    1) Raincoast Crisps, a Canadian brand, makes some interesting crackers in a pleasing bread shape. My favorites are the cranberry-hazelnut and the original, seeded varieties. Ignore their dumb "crispy conversation starter" slogan and try them with softer cheeses, like Delice de Bourgogne or any fresh chevre that doesn't have too much else going on. I buy mine at DeLaurenti and Savour (in Ballard).

    2) La Panzanella Croccantini. Amazing and incredibly versatile, these are made in Seattle and come in several flavors. My favorites with cheese are the black pepper and sesame, which go with most of the moister cheeses (moist is a gross word). The rosemary Croccantini is great with fresh chevre and lavender honey, for an earthy, flowery appetizer. Black pepper is great with cheeses that could use a little more going on, as it adds a little bit of spice and depth.

    3) I buy these weird, oblong finger-like crackers called Valencianos at DeLaurenti which are apparently hand-formed in Spain by a woman named Chleo (not to be confused with Cleo, the late-night TV psychic who I think is in jail). The olive oil-sea salt kind is the best and most versatile. I like them with creme fraiche and soft goat cheese, though I assume that they would go well with other cheeses too. They're awesome.

    Those are my top three, but there are many others I have tried and enjoyed. If you can't figure out what to get, those weird little toast crackers you find at Whole Foods are a good choice, as are the Pita Crackers from Trader Joe's. Neither has a strong taste so they won't compete with your cheese. But, you should also consider whether or not your cheese really needs crackers to accompany it. Sometimes, a delicious meat like Salumi's Culatello or Creminelli Tartuffo salami bring out better flavors or add moisture where it's needed. Crackers are nice vehicles for cheese, but not always an ideal pairing choice.

Questions
Recent Comments
  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Goonies_small

    I love Estrella, but I haven't tried the others. Thanks for the great list!

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Qland_small

    Estrella is amazing. About six years ago we were driving back from the coast and saw a hand-painted sign on the side of 101 that said 'CHEESE' and we followed the signs for miles until we got to the creamery. We met the goats, the cows, and tried the cheese samples, and they were so nice they've always had a place in my heart (which means something at $19 a pound!).

  • Comment on Geni's answer…
    Qland_small

    Geni, I know, right? VV is amazing, I've been dragging it to every gathering possible and raving about it to people. It's so good, and, once you know what to look for, not hard to find.

  • Comment on Geni's answer…
    Lookalikes_small

    Jessica, thanks for the recommendation for the vinho verde - I picked it up at T.J.'s yesterday for $4.99, and I LOVE this stuff!

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Lookalikes_small

    I picked up the La Ferme Julien at TJ's yesterday for $4.99/bottle! I'm quite thrilled with the quality for the price - thanks for the recommendation.

  • Comment on Geni's answer…
    Lookalikes_small

    That's a great suggestion, Jessica. I have a TJ's right across the street - I think I'll go look for vinho verde tonight!

  • Comment on Hunter's answer…
    11443802614723fe566385e_small

    I second Rex Goliath. When I lived in Santa Cruz it was one of the wines we almost always had around. Of course we called it Giant Cock Juice.

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    N1005724559_8286_small

    I agree, Bridget Parkhills cheese is outstanding!

  • Comment on Doug Nufer's answer…
    Prince_superbowl_small

    Yeah, those Abel Clement wines are VERY good for the price.

  • Comment on DOP1946's answer…
    Avatar_default

    St. Marcellin sounds great!

    Thank you for your thoughtful answer!

    Best,

    Seeking Cheese Utopia

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Nose_small

    Yeah, for sure, the Menage-a-trois rosé is a favorite of mine too. It's on sale right now (this week, and I'm not sure for how long) at QFC in Ballard for $9.99! Another inexpensive rosé I buy on the light side is Aimé Roquesante Côtes De Provence Rosé, which is on sale at the Whole Foods in Interbay this week for around 10 dollars. Enjoy! And, if you ever want to try a slightly more expensive rosé (around 20 bucks), try Château Miraval Côtes de Provence Pink Floyd Rosé 2008. I love it. Let me know if you need help tracking it down!

  • Comment on Will in Seattle's answer…
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    Whether it's politics or transportation or even wine, Will's ignorance knows no bounds.

    Vendange? Really?

  • Comment on CleverScreenName's answer…
    Qland_small

    I went to Sagelands' tasting room, and they said that the Sagelands that's sold at grocery stores is their very lowest-end stuff, stuff that never sees the tasting room. I think it's still a pretty good deal for a local wine (I like the Freddie's Blend). If you get a chance, get to the tasting room in Wapato and stock up on their nicer stuff, their whites and their rose were nice.

  • Comment on Geni's answer…
    Qland_small

    I swear by Segura Viudas and Freixenet (both are owned by the same company, Freixenet is $1-2 more expensive and has the fancy black bottle), as well as Cristalino. I personally am not a prosecco fan (I wish I could figure out why), but I love cavas and DSM's brut and blanc de noirs, both of which are usually $10 at Safeway.

    The wine buyer at the 15th and Thomas Safeway turned me onto vinho verde-- Portuguese "green wine". It's very lightly sparkling and has a lower alcohol level. They don't have VV on the shelf there, but she'll go in back and get it for you. It's readily available at TJ's.

  • Comment on CleverScreenName's answer…
    N10722954_6358_small

    I was going to suggest the Chateau St. Michelle Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Both are good, sweet white wines, that usually sell for $8-9 per bottle at Safeway or QFC.

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Lookalikes_small

    Ooh, another rose' fan! I love a dry rose'. My personal favorite is Toad Hollow's Eye of the Toad Pinot Rose', but I have to mail-order it. Haven't found anyone up here who carries it. I like the Menage a' Trois rose', too, very inexpensive.

  • Comment on Cedarthvader's answer…
    Avatar_default

    Yes, the sulphured fruit test is an easy one to do. I just note that the culprit is more often histamines, not sulfites, which is a common misconception.

    And yes, the poster should go to a doctor! If wine makes you that ill, it should be checked out - because wine has elements that are common in many foods, so treatment may have to go beyond eliminating wine.

  • Comment on Cedarthvader's answer…
    Cedar_photo_small

    Alarson--that's why I said to check and see if they have a sensitivity to sulfured fruit. It's an easy way to tell if that's the story. Oral allergy syndrome is all about histamines. And E.Strange--good point. The type of symptoms experienced should be the most indicative of what is going on. In any case, you should probably consult an allergist since none of us are doctors.

  • Comment on Cedarthvader's answer…
    Avatar_default

    It is a misconception that sulfites are the main problem with wine sensitivity. The real cuplrit is often histamines.

    http://foodallergies.about.com/od/livingwithfoodallergies/a/alcohol.htm

  • Comment on jessica r. 's answer…
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    try artavaggio - its a cows milk cheese and about $16 for a wheel. gooey deliciousness!

  • Comment on Cheese Vixen's answer…
    Avatar_default

    Thank you very much.

  • Comment on Julia Wayne's answer…
    Avatar_default

    That is quite a list of cheese.. I have my work cut out for me, and apparently a second mortgage to apply for. Thank you for the prices and contacts as well. This will be a wonderful new adventure!

  • Comment on jessica r. 's answer…
    Avatar_default

    How much does it cost at Delaurenti's? Also do you have any suggestions for affordable alternatives?

  • Comment on Cedarthvader's answer…
    Hair_hipstamatic_small

    It could be sulfites, but it could be something else too. I know my sensitivity has nothing to do with sulfites. AKB didn't really describe how wine makes him/her sick. If AKB is experiencing wheezing, shortness of breath and/or tightness in the chest, then the culprit is most likely sulfites, but if he/she is experiencing stomach pain/digestion issues, it's probably something else.

  • Comment on DOP1946's answer…
    Nose_small

    That cheese is the shit. My only problem with it is that I haven't found it anywhere available just by the pound. I know that you guys sell it as one wheel for about $22 and sometimes let me buy half of one, but I don't always want that much. I can't wait to see what else Kurt produces when he expands to making more types of cheese (when will he do that? soon, please).

  • Comment on rudedogdhc's answer…
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    I pretty much do it their way, although I'll use bacon fat instead of olive oil if I have any. I can't comment on the gas flame; I have an induction cooktop which is perfect with cast iron for creating very even heat.

  • Comment on protosaurus's answer…
    Memstad2011_copy_small

    Low and slow is the key, GCS get too dark really easily. Be patient, and use a lid.

  • Comment on Cheese Vixen's answer…
    Lookalikes_small

    Havarti on sourdough with fresh avocado is ambrosia to me, but aged (or better yet, smoked) gouda would be a nice addition.

    My husband had always grated the cheese for his GCS...it had never occurred to me to do so, and now I won't eat them made any other way. Makes perfect sammies!

  • Comment on Cedarthvader's answer…
    Shack_small

    I first thought of sulfites, also. There are sulfite-free wines on the market--I think all organic wines are low sulfite (a small amount occurs naturally). The first brand that comes to mind is Frey.

  • Comment on Lilting Missive's answer…
    Avatar_default

    Funny, I think of nearly all the flavors you describe in your first paragraph as being the flavors of fruit. I mean, what else would they be the flavors of, other than wood? The type of yeast and bacteria used for fermentation influences the flavor somewhat, but other than that, there's not really anything else used that imparts flavor in wine.