About Master Gardener Andrea

Loves to weed and plant!

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  Established Rhubarb and Grape Vine Questions

  2 0 About your grape questions: Cass Turnbull, founder of Plant Amnesty, pruning expert and author, says vines, including grape, can tolerate "radical pruning". In her book, Cass Turnbull's Guide to Pruning (2004), she writes:  "Gardeners commonly renovate old, abandoned vines of all kinds by cutting them down to the ground, or more accurately, to a foot above.   Or you may cut a vine way back to a manageable framework and then retrain the rampant new growth in coming years.  Vines rarely, if ever die.  Instead they grow back amazlngly fast and look better. . . Okay, occassionally making a big cut on a really old stem/trunk will kill it. So if it has three big, old stems (3/4- to 1-inch diameter), only cut one or two this year.  Save one for backup.  If you have only one really big, old stem, just grite your teeth and do it" Your grape vines would fit this scenario since the vines are 1.5" diameter at the base and old.  That said, I'd follow Turnbull's advice and cut it back as much as needed if you want to replace the arbor.  Turnbull cautions that grape vines bleed (run sap) if pruned to late in the winter.  Since it's almost the end of May, you will likely see sap, but it doesn't hurt the plant.   Grape vines do take a lot of space and should be pruned annually. Grape vines have a life expectancy of 80 years or more.  Depending on the age of your house, your vine may very well be in its final years.  The good news is that if you decide to try pruning it back, it may thrive, or if it dies, there are lots of great grape vines available.  Raintree Nursery stocks lots of vines that work well in the PNW.  Now, about your Rhubarb: Rhubarb's flavor is better earlier in the summer and, usually, harvesting stops by early July when the stalks start to become bitter, dry, and pithy.  Begin harvesting when the first stalks are at least 18 inches tall and the leaves are mature (12" across or more).  Since your rhubard is mature, each time you harvest, leave at least 8 stalks.   When harvesting, pull and twist the stalks away from the base.  Never use a knife or pruner.  The stalk left behind could become diseased.  When harvesting, remove all the foliage/leaves from the stalk. The leaves contain oxalic acid in toxic quantites.  Since your plant is old and has been neglected, I'd remove the oldest stems and keep the newest. New shoots should come up.    Rhubarb can live a long time in one spot, but should be divided every 8-10 years.  Rhubard also grows best in full sun.  Work in compost every year.   I hope this helps.  Master Gardener Andrea answered in Edibles & Herbs 6 days ago Answer, comment & read 2 more answers »

• Comment on sublevelthree's answer…

  0 0 Many thanks to you for your input! Master Gardener Andrea commented 25 days ago

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  0 0 Regardless of a typo. . . I thank you both for input! Master Gardener Andrea commented 25 days ago

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  0 0 Thanks for the recommendation and threads! Master Gardener Andrea commented 25 days ago

• Follow Following 1 Can you recommend an external hard drive for my MacBook Pro? Master Gardener Andrea asked in Tech Products 25 days ago 2 Answers by Biju , sublevelthree…

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  2 0 About orchid fertilizer. . . . I've used Grow More orchid food (30-10-10) and MiracleGro orchid fertilizer. Any water-soluble orchid fertilizer I've found has been fine. Also, to make it easier, I've been dissolving 1 teaspoon in a gallon container or whatever ratio recommended on the lable. By making up the mixture ahead of time, I'm more likely to keep to my weekly schedule. Master Gardener Andrea commented about 1 month ago

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  Can i still save my orchid?

  2 0 You didn't mention what type of orchid you have, although I'm not sure my answer would vary too much.  The most common orchids we see in the PNW include Cymbidiums (aka boat orchids), Paphiopedilums (aka lady slipper orchids), and Phaelaebiosis (aka moth orchids).  These orchids are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to grow in our homes. Now back to your question:  Do you see ANY sign of a new leaf? If the answer is yes, you have a chance of saving the plant. Cut back the flower stem--you want the plants energy going into producing leaves not flowers--and get your plant on a regular water schedule. I'll give general orchid care instructions later. If the answer is no, I recommend replacing the orchid.   Here's some general orchid care instruction: Light:  Orchids do not like direct sunlight.  Place your plant in a very bright window.  Water:  Watering is probably the most frequent reason orchids fail to thrive or die.  Most orchids should be watered just as they begin to dry out.  There are variations to this rule.  Orchids like Phaeleonopis and Paphiopedilums have no water storage "organ" and need to be watered just before dryness occurs.  I water my Paphiopedilums once a week.  To water place the plant in the kitchen sink.  Water your plant copiously until the water runs freely from the drainage holes. Keep the plant in the sink until all the water has drained.   Fertilize:  There is a lot of information available about when to fertilize and what fertilizer to use.  Unless you want to become a collector and grow lots of orchids, I'd recommend keeping it simple.  At the time of watering, I put a pinch of orchid fertilzer in 1 cup of water for every plant.  Every 3rd watering, I omit the fertilizer.   Humidity:  Place your plant on a saucer filled with pebbles.  Add some water.  Each week, replace with fresh water.  Don't overfill the saucer.  You don't want the plant to drink this water!  The roots will rot. This is probably more information than you wanted but I hope it helps.  If you do replace your orchid, keep the care tag.  The American Orchid Society's website has  particularly good Orchid 101 fact sheet designed for novice orchid lovers.  Or, post another question and I can give you specific care info for the type of orchid you've purchased.     Master Gardener Andrea answered in Flowers about 1 month ago Answer and comment »

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  0 0 You are welcome. I'm glad you knew which type you planted! Happy composting. Master Gardener Andrea commented about 1 month ago

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  Can I harvest edible fava beans this spring that I planted last fall?

  2 0 Depending on where you garden, it's definitely possible to sow fava beans in the fall and harvest a crop midspring.  The variety of bean you planted is important to identify:  large-seed or small-seed.  Why is this important to know?  Garden writer Willi Galloway has an excellent section in her new book Grow Cook Eat (2012) about fava beans. Willi recommends choosing "large-seed fava varieties. Small-seed types, which are known as faba, field, or bell beans, produce very starchy beans and are best used as a cover crop.” (Incidentally, I recently purchased Willi's book and recommend it to anyone considering vegetable gardening in the NW!) If you planted the large-seed variety, then by all means wait to harvest the beans.  According to Territorial Seeds: "Fava beans are ready to harvest and cook as a green shelling bean when the pods drop from their erect habit on the stem and droop down.” Fava beans are more labor intensive than other crops and must be shucked, blanched, and peeled before used in most recipes.  If you planted the small-seed variety, likely packaged as a cover crop, I would not wait to harvest the beans.  Instead turn over the plants into the soil and take advantage of the nitrogen fixing properties of the crop. Ideally, cover crops are turned under about 3 weeks before planting. This gives enough time for some decomposition to occur and for the soil to warm. By waiting until the plants flower or are at the seed stage, the crop can become woody and decompose more slowly. Whenever you can't turn the crop under in time, first chop or mow it, and turn it under as soon as possible. You can also remove and compost the clippings, returning them to the garden as compost.   If you decide to grow fava beans, Will Galloway recommends two varieties:  'Aquadulce', her favorite and 'Broad Windsor', a popular British variety and an excellent choice for fall plantings . Please let me know if you have more questions or if I didn't address your concerns.     Master Gardener Andrea answered in Edibles & Herbs about 1 month ago Answer and comment »

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  1 0 Bravo! Master Gardener Andrea commented about 1 month ago

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