I'm not an expert in this, but this looks like a coyote with a serious case of mange to me.

I second most of what Griffin said, particularly tethering the puppy to you when you're multitasking, or having her crated. You can give her treats and toys in the crate to help her enjoy it.

Here's my additional two cents:

There are a few different issues to address as far as potty training is concerned, but the first change to make is to stop rubbing her nose in her accidents. Particularly if you don't catch her in the act, scolding or punishing a dog for pottying inside is simply confusing to them. You have roughly a two second window from the time a dog performs a behavior to respond to it with a reward (or a punishment, if that's what you choose). After those two seconds, the consequence (good or bad!) has lost its association with the behavior.

You *can* respond to an accident if you catch her in the act, and then the correct response is "oops!" and get her outside quickly, then praise and treat the heck out of her for finishing her business outdoors. In fact, every instance of your little girl eliminating outside should be rewarded heavily with tons of praise and 5-20 amazingly tasty treats (think teeny tiny pieces of chicken, cheese, or hot dog).

You're absolutely right that consistency is key- for most puppies taking them out every two hours is just about the right amount, and some dogs need potty breaks even more often. A good rule of thumb is that the puppy can hold it for about an hour for every month of their age, plus one. So a 12 week old puppy might be able to hold it for about 4 hours. They may hold it longer overnight, too.

As far as teaching her to bark or whine to be let out, I would suggest using the potty bells Griffin mentioned instead. Dachshunds already have a tendency to be very vocal, and if they have to use their voice to be able to potty appropriately, barking/whining becomes reinforced from a very young age. Potty bells can be a great alternative, though you may want to get some help in teaching her to use them. Clicker training works really well for this, and I would bet you could find a YouTube video of someone teaching a dog to target the bells pretty easily. The abbreviated version is:

Reward the pup for any interaction with the bells.
Reward her for touching the bells, even lightly.
Reward her for pushing the bells.
Reward her for pushing the bells hard enough to make a sound.
Reward her *after* you take her right outside the door, once she's rung the bells.
Reward her after she *potties* when you take her outside after she's rung the bells.

Hope this helps, and good luck with your puppy!

Not that I'm biased or anything :), but at Ahimsa Dog Training, we work with dog/dog aggression. We have Growly Dog classes, which is a six week group class focused entirely on helping owners with dog-aggressive dogs. We also offer private sessions both in-home and in the training studio.

Besides recommending trainers, you might want to try to observe your dog's behavior (safely! On-leash, or even with a muzzle to avoid lawsuits) around other dogs in a variety of situations- is there a particular distance at which he starts to react? Is his behavior different in his own space (at home, in the car, around your neighborhood) than it is in other places (different neighborhoods, pet store parking lots)? Has there been a particular profile of dog that he's attacked? Maybe only large or small dogs, or long-haired dogs, dogs of a particular age or breed, or dogs with similar temperaments? The more information you have, the more the trainer you choose will be able to help you.

You should also try to observe his body language- leaning forward and putting most of his weight on the front feet usually indicates confidence, while leaning backward and keeping the center of gravity low indicates fear. The height of the tail is also an indicator, as well as tension around the eyes- if you can see the whites of his eyes or he's looking at the target dog out of the corner of his eye, it's more likely that he's afraid, as opposed to a "hard" stare head-on without blinking, which is more of a challenge. Again, more helpful information to provide your trainer with to help diagnose the cause of your dog's aggression and help work with him. And it's always a good idea to have him go to the vet for a full work-up to make sure there isn't any physical cause to his behavior. Some dogs that are aggressive may be in pain or have a hormone imbalance that contributes to their explosive incidents.

I wish you the best of luck with your pup. Having an aggressive dog can be emotionally draining, and he's lucky to have an owner that's interested in working with him instead of turning him over to the shelter. Hang in there!

This is a complicated question, and to really give you a fair answer it would be great to know a bit more about the situation- how often she's having spats, if there are particular types of dogs that trigger her, how long the fights last, if she's ever done damage to another dog, and what her body language looks like before, during, and after a tussle.

However, assuming that your pup really does enjoy being around other dogs and has only occasional issues, the first thing I'd advise is training a really solid recall cue. In volatile situations at a dog park, it's essential to be able to get your dog to your side quickly to prevent things from escalating from a spat to a full-blown fight.

I would also recommend keeping close tabs on her body language around other dogs. If you can predict which dogs she's more likely to react to, you'll have much better luck preventing spats. Some things to watch for, if you haven't spotted them already: laying her ears back or down, "whale eye" or seeing the whites of her eyes, tucking her tail or overall lowering of her body posture, stiffening as she first meets the dog, tail standing up high over the back, or raising her head up higher as the other dog approaches, lip licking, hackles up, and teeth baring. These signals can all point to tension, though not necessarily aggression, and they really need to be taken in context of other body language cues.

If you can see a pattern develop (for example, if she's uncomfortable with hyperactive adolescent dogs, you may notice her spot one on the horizon, slow her movement, turn sideways to the other dog, lick her lips and look away, bare her teeth, give a belly rumble, then snap at the other dog), you can try to catch her in the very first phase, ie. when she notices the other dog, and call her over to you for a treat. This serves two purposes- it gets her closer to you so that you can respond better to any altercation that might occur, and it teaches her that other dogs being around = good things for her. Be careful not to treat her when other puppies have their noses near you, since that may trigger food guarding, and move a short distance away from the "trigger dog" before you release her to go play.

Finally, if a dog is being overly insistent on playing with her, or mounting her, or generally just being pushy, it's normal for a dog to correct them. If her spats are always brief, noisy, and result in no damage to either dog (but maybe a lot of spit flying), it demonstrates that your dog probably has pretty good bite inhibition, and may be delivering a completely appropriate Back Off message. The other owners may not like it, but in that case they may need to learn more about dogs and their social interactions, and possibly learn how to train their own dogs.